Choijin Lama Temple Museum

Overview

Nestled amidst the modern skyline of Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, the Choijin Lama Temple Museum stands as a captivating 'island of antiquity' and a profound testament to the nation's rich Buddhist heritage. This architectural marvel, also known as the Museum of Religion, offers visitors a unique journey back in time, preserving a complex of five magnificent temples that once served as an active monastery. Its survival through tumultuous periods of history, particularly the Communist purges of the 20th century, makes it a rare and invaluable cultural treasure in the heart of the capital.

History & Cultural Background

The Choijin Lama Temple complex was constructed between 1904 and 1908, a period of significant political and social change in Mongolia. It was built under the patronage of the Eighth Bogd Khaan Jebtsundamba, the theocratic ruler of Mongolia, and dedicated to his younger brother, Luvsankhaidav Choijin Lama. Choijin Lama, whose honorary title 'Choijin' translates to 'fierce defender of Buddhism', served as the state oracle, making this temple a pivotal center for religious and political life. The construction, led by Mongolian architects and craftsmen like Ombogiin, combined traditional Mongolian styles with elements of Chinese and Tibetan architecture, reflecting the prevailing cultural influences of the era.

The monastery remained an active place of worship until 1938 when, amidst the intense Communist repression against Buddhism and other religions, it was compelled to shut down. While hundreds of other monasteries across Mongolia were destroyed, the Choijin Lama Temple miraculously escaped this fate. Through the shrewd efforts of individuals, it was re-established as a museum in 1942, reportedly to demonstrate the 'feudal' ways of the past, thereby preserving its buildings and invaluable collections intact. This pivotal decision saved the complex, allowing it to become one of the few remaining examples of pre-1930s monastic architecture and art in Ulaanbaatar.

What Makes It Special

The museum is celebrated for its distinctive architecture and the unparalleled preservation of its religious art and artifacts. The complex comprises a main temple and several smaller temples, each uniquely adorned and housing an extraordinary collection of Buddhist treasures. The main temple, for instance, features an 18th-century gilded statue of Buddha Sakyamuni, flanked by statues of Choijin Lama and Baltung Choimba, the latter reportedly containing mummified remains. The Mahayana Temple, often the first temple encountered, greets visitors with impressive papier-mache sculptures of the four great guardian kings.

Among its vast collection of over 6,500 artifacts, visitors can marvel at exquisite wood carvings, intricate appliqués, vibrant silk embroideries, and bronze sculptures, some dating back to the 17th century. The museum proudly displays works by the renowned 17th-century artist and religious reformer Zanabazar, considered one of Mongolia's greatest artisans. The interior murals and decorative elements are particularly striking, with some sources suggesting they involved more than two tons of pure silver. The Yadam Temple, once reserved for the Choijin Lama's private devotions, now offers a glimpse into tantric Buddhist practices with its gilded bronze sculpture of a Mahasiddha.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

One of the most intriguing aspects of the Choijin Lama Temple Museum is its improbable survival story. During a time when countless Buddhist monasteries were systematically destroyed, this complex was intentionally preserved as a museum, albeit for reasons that served the Communist narrative. This clever repurposing inadvertently saved a priceless piece of Mongolian cultural identity.

The museum houses a remarkable array of ceremonial Cham dance masks. These fearsome and majestic vestments, crafted from papier-mache and often adorned with precious materials like coral beads, were used in ritual dances to exorcise evil spirits and impress with their intricate detail. The collection also includes a replica of the 108-volume Kangyur and parts of the 226-volume Tengyur, significant Buddhist texts that reflect the scholarly and spiritual depth of the monastic tradition. The very name 'Choijin Lama' is an honorary title, reflecting Luvsankhaidav's significant spiritual and political role as the state oracle and younger brother of the Bogd Khaan.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting the Choijin Lama Temple Museum offers a serene and contemplative experience, a stark contrast to the bustling city outside its walls. It's often described as stepping into a 'magical time capsule', providing a rare opportunity to see an authentic Buddhist monastery preserved almost in its original state. The museum is located conveniently in downtown Ulaanbaatar, making it easily accessible for travelers.

While explanations within the temples are not always exhaustive, helpful hallway assistants are often available to provide additional context. Audio guides are also offered, providing detailed information as you explore the complex. Photography inside the temples typically requires a special fee, which, while substantial, can be worthwhile for capturing the breathtaking interiors. The museum operates with varying hours, generally open Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with seasonal adjustments, so checking current schedules is advisable. An entry fee of approximately 8000 MNT for adults is standard. Before departing, visitors can browse a souvenir shop located in a concrete ger on the grounds, offering a selection of books and unique Mongolian items.