Main Temple Hall

Overview

Deep within the bustling heart of Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, lies a serene and spiritually significant sanctuary: the Choijin Lama Temple Museum. This remarkable complex, erected between 1904 and 1908, houses several temples, with the Main Temple Hall (also known as Gol Süm) standing as its centerpiece and primary focus. Originally a vibrant Buddhist monastery, the entire complex was ingeniously preserved from destruction during the communist purges of the 1930s by being converted into a museum. It presents a captivating blend of traditional Mongolian and Chinese architectural styles, characterized by its distinctive blue brick walls and intricate wooden roofs adorned with green tiles. Today, the Main Temple Hall offers visitors a rare glimpse into Mongolia's rich religious past, serving as a repository for an extraordinary collection of Buddhist art and artifacts, all while nestled amidst the city's modern skyscrapers, creating a striking contrast of old and new.

History & Cultural Background

The Choijin Lama Temple complex was commissioned by the 8th Bogd Khaan Jebtsundamba, the then-theocratic ruler of Mongolia, and dedicated to his younger brother, Luvsankhaidav. Luvsankhaidav held the esteemed title of Choijin Lama and served as the State Oracle, a pivotal spiritual and political figure in early 20th-century Mongolia. The term 'Choijin' itself signifies a 'fierce defender of Buddhism' or is an honorary title bestowed upon select monks. Construction was a monumental undertaking, led by the renowned architect Ombog (Ombo) and involving over 300 skilled Mongolian master craftsmen from across the nation. This sacred site's survival is a testament to a clever act of preservation. During the widespread religious suppression by the Soviet-backed communist government in the late 1930s, nearly all of Mongolia's monasteries were destroyed. However, through the 'shrewd work of experienced individuals', the Choijin Lama Temple was declared a museum in 1938 or 1942, effectively safeguarding its structures and invaluable contents from demolition. Although no longer an active place of worship, its historical and cultural significance endures, making it a living monument to Mongolian Buddhist heritage.

What Makes It Special

The Main Temple Hall stands out as the spiritual and artistic heart of the Choijin Lama Temple Museum. Its central feature is a magnificent 18th-century gilded statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. This revered Buddha is flanked by statues of two immensely important figures: on his right, the effigy of Choijin Lama Luvsankhaidav, and on his left, a statue of his esteemed teacher, Baltung Choimba (also known as Baldan Choephel or Baldanchoimbal). A particularly profound and unique detail is the belief that the mummified remains of both Choijin Lama Luvsankhaidav and Baltung Choimba are enshrined within their respective statues, adding an extraordinary layer of spiritual potency to the hall. Beyond these central figures, the Main Temple Hall and its adjoining areas house a breathtaking array of Buddhist art. Visitors can marvel at a rich collection of religious instruments, intricate thangka paintings, delicate silk embroideries, detailed wood carvings, and a vast assortment of statues. Furthermore, the 'gongkhang', or protector chapel, situated behind the main hall, contains the very throne where the State Oracle would once receive visions and deliver pronouncements, alongside a striking statue depicting yab-yum, symbolizing mystic sexual union. The walls themselves are adorned with vibrant Mongolian paintings, some even illustrating the intricate and sometimes gruesome imagery of Naraka, or Buddhist Hell, intended to inspire virtuous living.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The Choijin Lama Temple Museum is steeped in fascinating stories and cultural nuances. The entire complex was originally named 'Temple of Perfection of Compassion' (Өршөөлийг хөгжүүлэгч сүм) by the Qing Emperor Guangxu, reflecting its profound spiritual purpose. The survival of the temple during the communist era, when countless other religious sites were obliterated, is perhaps its most compelling tale, attributed to the foresight of those who recognized its cultural and historical value and successfully advocated for its transformation into a museum. This act preserved not just buildings, but an entire artistic and religious legacy. The practice of enshrining the mummified remains of revered lamas within their statues is a rare and deeply significant tradition, underscoring the profound respect and spiritual connection accorded to these figures. Stepping into the Main Temple Hall, one can almost feel the echoes of the State Oracle's trances, imagining the ceremonies and pronouncements that once shaped national decisions. The stark juxtaposition of this ancient, spiritual oasis against the backdrop of modern, glittering skyscrapers in Ulaanbaatar creates a powerful visual metaphor for Mongolia's journey through time, a unique blend of heritage and contemporary life. While active worship is no longer the primary function, locals still visit to pray and show reverence, demonstrating the enduring spiritual pull of the place.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting the Main Temple Hall within the Choijin Lama Temple Museum offers a truly immersive cultural experience for the curious traveler. Its prime location in the city center, just a short walk south of Sukhbaatar Square and adjacent to the Shangri-La Hotel, makes it easily accessible. Upon entering, you're invited to embark on a leisurely exploration, allowing ample time to appreciate the intricate details of the architecture and the sacred artworks. While the museum is no longer a functioning monastery, the atmosphere remains one of profound reverence and historical depth. For a richer understanding of the exhibits and the subtle meanings behind each sacred symbol, considering the services of a local guide is highly recommended. It is important to note that while exterior photography is often free, there may be a fee to take pictures inside the temples, especially within the Main Temple Hall, due to the delicate nature of the artifacts. If planning a visit during Ulaanbaatar's chilly winter months, remember that the historical buildings, including the Main Temple Hall, typically lack a heating system, so dressing warmly is advisable for comfort. The museum generally observes closures on Mondays and Sundays, so planning your visit accordingly will ensure you don't miss this extraordinary journey into Mongolia's spiritual past.