Cricova Winery

Overview

Deep beneath the rolling hills north of Chisinau, Moldova, lies the extraordinary Cricova Winery, a destination that transcends the typical winemaking facility. Often referred to as an 'underground city' of wine, Cricova is a vast subterranean complex renowned for its immense cellars, remarkable wine collection, and rich history. It is a place where the art of winemaking converges with geology and tradition, creating a unique cultural landmark for Moldova.

Established within ancient limestone mines, the winery offers an unparalleled experience, guiding visitors through kilometers of tunnels where millions of bottles age in ideal natural conditions. Recognized as a national treasure, Cricova holds a significant place in Moldova's identity, symbolizing its deep-rooted winemaking heritage.

History & Cultural Background

The story of Cricova Winery began in 1952, born from a clever solution to a storage problem for Moldova's burgeoning wine industry. Two Moldovan winemaking pioneers, Petru Ungureanu and Nicolae Sobolev, proposed utilizing the extensive underground galleries, remnants of 15th-century limestone quarries, as natural wine cellars.

These tunnels, originally carved to extract building materials for cities like Chisinau, proved to possess the perfect conditions—a constant cool temperature and high humidity—for aging wine. The transformation of these mines into a wine 'emporium' marked a pivotal moment, and by 2003, the Cricova Winery was officially declared the National Cultural Heritage of Moldova by parliamentary law, cementing its status as an invaluable national asset.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets Cricova apart is its scale and the ingenious way it integrates winemaking with its subterranean environment. The 'underground city' comprises a labyrinthine network of roadways stretching over 120 kilometers, with approximately 60 to 80 kilometers actively used for wine storage. These underground streets are uniquely named after the wines they house, such as 'Cabernet,' 'Feteasca,' and 'Aligote,' complete with road signs and traffic lights, creating an immersive experience for visitors.

The cellars maintain a consistent temperature of around 12 to 14°C (54°F) and humidity of 95-98% year-round, conditions naturally ideal for the slow maturation of high-quality wines and sparkling wines. Cricova is particularly celebrated for producing sparkling wine using the traditional 'Méthode Traditionnelle,' where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, similar to French Champagne.

At its heart lies the National Wine Collection, or 'Oenoteca,' which originated in 1954 and boasts nearly 1.3 million bottles. This impressive collection includes rare vintages from across the globe, with the oldest known bottle being the 'Easter Jerusalem' red dessert wine from 1902. Another historical highlight is a portion of Hermann Göring's private wine collection, seized during World War II and housed within these very cellars.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Cricova's mystique is amplified by its many stories and famous visitors. One popular anecdote recounts that Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin entered the cellars in 1966 and supposedly emerged two days later, needing assistance after enjoying the vast selection of wines. Russian President Vladimir Putin also chose Cricova as the venue to celebrate his 50th birthday, a testament to its prestige. Numerous other heads of state, politicians, and celebrities, including Angela Merkel and John Kerry, have visited and some even maintain private wine collections within Cricova's esteemed galleries.

Adding to its allure, the limestone extraction continues in some parts of the galleries, meaning this subterranean wine city is still actively expanding. The winery also shows a commitment to sustainability, having started planting organic vineyards in 2017 and launching a series of organic wines in 2023.

Visitor Perspective

A visit to Cricova is often described as an unforgettable journey into the heart of Moldovan winemaking. Tourists typically explore the vast network of tunnels via electric trains, a practical necessity given the sheer scale of the 'underground city'. Guided tours provide insights into the winemaking process, the history of the cellars, and the impressive National Collection.

The experience often culminates in one of the beautifully appointed underground tasting rooms, situated up to 60 meters below ground, where visitors can sample Cricova's diverse range of wines, including their renowned sparkling varieties. Many visitors highlight the unique atmosphere and the sheer grandeur of the underground complex, making it a must-see attraction for anyone traveling to Moldova.