

Deep beneath the surface of Chisinau, Moldova, lies an extraordinary subterranean world: Cricova Winery. This vast complex, often referred to as an 'underground wine city,' is renowned globally as the second-largest wine cellar in the world. Stretching for an impressive 120 kilometers, with 60 to 80 kilometers actively utilized, its labyrinthine tunnels are carved out of former limestone mines. The consistent natural conditions – a cool 12-14°C temperature and 95-98% humidity – provide the perfect environment for aging and storing a staggering quantity of wine. Visitors to Cricova embark on a unique journey through these dimly lit passages, often by electric train, to discover the heart of Moldovan winemaking.
The origins of Cricova's underground network trace back to the 15th century, when limestone was extracted from these very tunnels to construct buildings in Chisinau. However, the winery itself was officially established in 1952. It was the vision of two Moldovan winemakers, Petru Ungureanu and Nicolae Sobolev, who recognized the immense potential of these natural caves for wine storage, addressing a critical need for ideal aging conditions in the region. During the Soviet era, Cricova quickly rose to prominence, becoming a significant producer and a symbol of Moldovan viticulture. Its importance to the nation's heritage was solidified in 2003 when the Parliament of the Republic of Moldova officially declared Cricova Winery a National Cultural Heritage site. Notably, Cricova pioneered the production of sparkling wine in Moldova, adopting the esteemed traditional French 'Méthode Traditionnelle,' a complex process involving secondary fermentation within the bottle.
The unique appeal of Cricova's Tasting Halls is inextricably linked to its subterranean setting. These halls are not merely rooms; they are meticulously crafted spaces nestled 60 to 100 meters underground, each boasting its own distinct character and theme. Visitors can explore five such exquisite halls: The European Hall, Casa Mare, The Sea Bottom Hall, The Presidential Hall, and The Fireplace Hall, all designed to enhance the wine tasting experience. Beyond the tasting rooms, Cricova is a functioning 'underground city' where vast avenues are named after the grape varieties they house, such as 'Cabernet,' 'Chardonnay,' and 'Sauvignon.' It is home to the National Collection, also known as the Oenotheque, a remarkable repository holding over 1.3 million bottles of rare and historic wines. This includes incredibly rare vintages like the 'Easter Jerusalem' from 1902.
Cricova is steeped in fascinating anecdotes and legends that add to its allure. Perhaps the most famous story tells of Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space, who reportedly entered the cellars and emerged two days later, having 'gotten lost' in the labyrinthine passages after indulging in the fine wines. Another notable visitor, Russian President Vladimir Putin, chose Cricova as the venue for his 50th birthday celebration. The winery also harbors a curious historical treasure: a significant portion of Hermann Göring's personal wine collection, comprising over 2,000 bottles, was transferred here after World War II. A testament to traditional craftsmanship, Cricova's sparkling wine production still involves a dedicated team of five women who manually rotate approximately 35,000 bottles by hand as part of the riddling process. The vast underground complex even features an underground cinema and a chapel, showcasing the sheer scale and ingenuity of this vinicultural marvel.
Visiting Cricova's Tasting Halls offers more than just a wine sampling; it is an immersive cultural and historical adventure. Tours typically begin with transportation into the underground city, often aboard an electric train, guiding visitors through the extensive network of tunnels and explaining the intricate winemaking processes. The highlight for many is the tasting session itself, held in one of the distinctive underground halls. Depending on the chosen package, guests can sample a selection of wines – usually three to seven types – often accompanied by local snacks. While the experience can feel more 'official' than a casual vineyard visit due to its scale and structured tours, it remains a profoundly fascinating and essential highlight for anyone exploring Moldova. Due to its popularity, prospective visitors are strongly advised to book their tours, especially those including tasting experiences, well in advance to ensure availability.
Coordinates: 28.85991969899043, 47.13316861013352
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