Sparkling Wine Section

Overview

Deep within the unique underground city of Cricova Winery in Chisinau, Moldova, lies a special realm dedicated to the art of effervescence: the Sparkling Wine Section. This isn't just a part of a winery; it's a subterranean marvel, an integral component of one of the world's largest wine cellars, stretching for an astonishing 120 kilometers beneath the earth. Approximately 60 to 80 kilometers of these labyrinthine tunnels are actively used for wine storage and production, maintaining a naturally perfect environment. Here, amidst the cool, consistent temperatures of 12-14 degrees Celsius and high humidity of 90-98%, the magic of traditional method sparkling wine unfolds. Cricova is not only Moldova's first but also its largest producer of sparkling wine, having been declared a National Cultural Heritage site in 2003.

History & Cultural Background

The story of Cricova's underground passages predates its winemaking endeavors, tracing back to the 15th century when limestone was quarried to build the capital city of Chisinau. These ancient galleries, carved deep into the earth, provided an unexpected yet ideal foundation for viticulture centuries later. The Cricova Winery itself was established in 1952 by visionary winemakers Petru Ungureanu and Nicolae Sobolev. It was Ungureanu who pioneered the experiments with aging classic sparkling wine in these limestone 'hrublands' in the early 1950s. The true milestone for sparkling wine production came in 1980 when the dedicated champagne factory began operations within the Cricova galleries. This marked Cricova as the first enterprise in Moldova to produce sparkling wine using the classical French Méthode Traditionnelle, a process that involves secondary fermentation directly in the bottle, echoing the revered methods of Dom Pérignon.

What Makes It Special

The Sparkling Wine Section at Cricova is a testament to dedication and traditional craftsmanship. What truly sets it apart is its unwavering commitment to the Méthode Traditionnelle. Unlike many modern producers, Cricova insists on the time-honored process of secondary fermentation occurring directly within each individual bottle, followed by a meticulous aging period. This extensive aging process sees the sparkling wines rest horizontally for at least three years, though some premium variants may mature for up to five years, allowing their complex flavors to fully develop.

A significant portion of this intricate production, particularly the aging and riddling stages, takes place at remarkable depths, often around 90 meters underground. This subterranean location naturally provides the stable cool temperatures and high humidity levels crucial for the slow, controlled maturation of fine sparkling wine. Visitors can witness the captivating process of 'remuage', or riddling, where skilled Moldovan specialists, known as 'remueurs', manually rotate tens of thousands of bottles each day in special wooden racks called 'pupitres'. This precise, manual rotation helps to guide sediment toward the bottle's neck. This blend of traditional techniques and naturally ideal conditions contributes to the exceptional quality and distinct character of Cricova's sparkling wines, which include a unique sparkling red wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, known as 'Kodrinskoie-sparkling'. The winery's excellence is globally recognized, having received prestigious awards such as a Gold Medal in 2020 for its 'Cricova Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs' at the 'Effervescents du Monde' competition.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The underground corridors of Cricova are not merely storage spaces; they are steeped in fascinating lore and national pride. One of the most famous tales recounts Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin's visit in 1966, where legend has it he ventured so deep into the cellars that he emerged, with a little help, two days later. Former Russian President Vladimir Putin also chose these historic cellars as the venue for his 50th birthday celebration.

As you navigate this subterranean network, you'll find that the 'streets' are literally named after grape varieties such as 'Cabernet', 'Chardonnay', 'Sauvignon', and 'Feteasca', guiding visitors through a viticultural map of the underground. Beyond the sparkling wines, Cricova holds an immense national collection of wines, boasting over a million bottles, with the oldest vintage dating back to 1902. Among these priceless treasures is a portion of Hermann Göring's personal wine collection, acquired as war reparations, adding a layer of historical intrigue to the winery's already rich tapestry. For Moldovans, Cricova is more than just a winery; it is a profound source of national identity and a symbol of their rich winemaking heritage.

Visitor Perspective

A visit to Cricova's Sparkling Wine Section offers a truly immersive and unforgettable experience for any curious traveler. The journey begins with a guided tour, often involving electric transport through the vast underground tunnels, providing a sense of embarking on a unique adventure into a hidden world. As you delve deeper, you'll gain clear explanations of the intricate Méthode Traditionnelle production process, seeing firsthand the traditional riddling rooms where bottles are carefully turned by hand.

The highlight for many is the opportunity to taste the exquisite sparkling wines in one of the winery's elegant underground tasting rooms, a setting that amplifies the sensory experience. It's a chance to connect with Moldova's winemaking culture and appreciate the effort that goes into each bottle. Conveniently located just 15 kilometers north of Chisinau, Cricova is easily accessible by bus or taxi, making it a popular day trip. Visitors are advised to book tours in advance and, importantly, to bring a warm jacket, as the constant subterranean temperature remains a cool 12 degrees Celsius, regardless of the weather above ground.