Piazza Navona

Discover Piazza Navona in Rome, Italy, a stunning Baroque square built on the ancient Stadium of Domitian, featuring Bernini's Fountain of Four Rivers.

Overview

Piazza Navona stands as one of Rome's most magnificent and beloved public squares, a vibrant testament to Baroque artistry and ancient history. Its distinctive elongated oval shape immediately captures attention, a unique characteristic that hints at its fascinating origins. More than just a square, Piazza Navona is an open-air museum, adorned with spectacular fountains, grand palaces, and the striking Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone. Today, it bustles with life, featuring street artists, cafes, and a constant flow of visitors soaking in its timeless atmosphere.

History & Cultural Background

The story of Piazza Navona begins not as a square, but as a grand athletic arena: the Stadium of Domitian. Commissioned by Emperor Domitian in 86 AD, this stadium was an impressive structure built for athletic contests, modeled after Greek Olympic games, not gladiatorial combat. It was approximately 275 meters long and 106 meters wide, capable of accommodating around 30,000 spectators. The stadium was often called the "Circus Agonalis," from the Greek word "agones," meaning "games" or "contests," which is believed to be the etymological root of "Navona." The stadium's remains still lie beneath the current piazza, a fascinating archaeological area accessible to visitors.

Following the decline of the Roman Empire, the stadium fell into disuse. By the 15th century, the area was paved over, and the city's main market relocated here, transforming it into a bustling commercial hub. However, the piazza truly came into its own during the 17th century, under the patronage of Pope Innocent X (Giovanni Battista Pamphili), whose family palace, the Palazzo Pamphili, overlooked the square. Pope Innocent X initiated a grandiose project to transform the piazza into a showcase of Baroque art and architecture, a monumental effort to enhance his family's prestige. This period saw the creation of the iconic fountains and the rebuilding of the Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone, primarily by two of the era's greatest rival architects: Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini.

What Makes It Special

Piazza Navona's undeniable allure stems from its extraordinary collection of Baroque masterpieces. Dominating the center is Gian Lorenzo Bernini's magnificent Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), unveiled in 1651. This allegorical fountain features four colossal river gods representing the four major rivers of the continents known at the time: the Nile (Africa), the Danube (Europe), the Ganges (Asia), and the Río de la Plata (the Americas). An ancient Egyptian obelisk, originally from the Circus of Maxentius, rises dramatically from the center, crowned with the Pamphili family emblem of a dove. Bernini's innovative design and the fountain's sheer scale make it a breathtaking spectacle.

Flanking Bernini's masterpiece are two other impressive fountains by Giacomo della Porta: the Fontana del Moro (Moor Fountain) at the southern end and the Fontana di Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune) at the northern end. While della Porta designed their basins in the late 16th century, the central figures were added later—Bernini added the Moor wrestling a dolphin in 1673, and the statue of Neptune was added in 1878 to balance the composition.

Opposite the Fountain of the Four Rivers stands the elegant Baroque church of Sant'Agnese in Agone. Designed primarily by Francesco Borromini, the church is dedicated to Saint Agnes, who, according to tradition, was martyred on the site of the ancient stadium. Its concave facade, flanked by two bell towers and topped by a soaring dome, creates a dynamic interplay with Bernini's fountain across the square, a subtle nod to the architects' famous rivalry.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

One of the most charming and unique historical details of Piazza Navona is the tradition of the "Lake of Piazza Navona" (Lago di Piazza Navona). Until the mid-19th century, during the hot summer months, the piazza would be intentionally flooded by blocking the drains of its fountains. This allowed Romans to cool off and enjoy impromptu water games, creating a festive, watery spectacle that brought relief from the summer heat.

The rivalry between Bernini and Borromini is legendary and has given rise to amusing anecdotes. A popular, though likely apocryphal, story claims that Bernini designed the river god representing the Río de la Plata in his Four Rivers Fountain to be shielding its eyes from the facade of Borromini's Sant'Agnese in Agone, implying that Bernini found Borromini's work displeasing. In reality, the fountain was completed before Borromini's facade was fully realized. Nevertheless, such tales add to the piazza's rich tapestry of lore.

The name "Navona" itself is a linguistic evolution. From "in agone" (meaning "in the games" or "contests"), it transformed over time to "navone" and eventually "Navona," possibly also influenced by its elongated shape resembling a ship. The piazza also hosts a beloved Christmas market each year, filling the square with festive stalls and lights from December to early January, adding another layer to its vibrant cultural calendar.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting Piazza Navona today is an immersive experience. The square is a hub of activity, where the grandeur of history blends seamlessly with contemporary Roman life. You'll find street performers—musicians, magicians, and living statues—adding to the lively atmosphere. Portrait artists often set up their easels, offering unique souvenirs. Numerous cafes and restaurants line the perimeter, providing perfect spots to sit, enjoy an espresso or an aperitivo, and simply watch the world go by.

For a quieter experience, consider visiting early in the morning when the light is soft, and the crowds are thin, allowing for a more serene appreciation of the architecture and fountains. Evening visits are equally enchanting, as the illuminated fountains create a romantic and magical ambiance. Don't miss the opportunity to delve deeper into its past by exploring the archaeological remains of the Stadium of Domitian beneath the square, accessible via an entrance on Via di Tor Sanguigna. Piazza Navona is easily reachable on foot from other major Roman landmarks like the Pantheon and Campo de' Fiori, making it an essential and unforgettable stop on any Roman itinerary.