Upper Temples

Overview

Nestled majestically on the southwestern slopes of Bali's sacred Mount Agung, the Besakih Temple complex stands as the 'Mother Temple' of Bali, a profound spiritual heart for Balinese Hinduism. Within this sprawling complex, the 'Upper Temples' refer to the collection of shrines situated on the higher terraces, culminating in the revered Pura Penataran Agung. This ascent is not merely physical but deeply symbolic, guiding pilgrims and curious travelers alike closer to the divine presence believed to reside on the volcanic peak. It is an intricate tapestry of over 20 separate yet interconnected temples, each contributing to the holistic spiritual experience. The Besakih complex, including its upper reaches, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, from lush rice fields to the distant ocean, providing a serene backdrop for contemplation and worship. Its architectural design, characterized by stepped terraces and ascending gateways, is a testament to ancient Balinese cosmology and a visible journey towards spiritual enlightenment.

History & Cultural Background

The origins of Besakih Temple are steeped in antiquity, with archaeological evidence suggesting the presence of megalithic stepped pyramids dating back at least 2,000 years. Its significance as a holy site predates recorded history. The formal establishment of the temple as a Hindu place of worship is often credited to the Javanese priest Rsi Markandeya in the 8th century AD. Legend recounts that Rsi Markandeya, guided by a divine revelation, journeyed to Bali and consecrated this site by planting five sacred metals (Panca Datu) to bless the land. By the 15th century, Besakih had grown into the state temple of the powerful Gelgel dynasty, cementing its status as the central spiritual pillar for the entire island. The entire complex embodies the Balinese Hindu philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, emphasizing harmony between God, humanity, and nature. This ancient philosophy is reflected in the temple's layout and its continuous role as a living place of worship where centuries-old traditions are upheld daily.

What Makes It Special

The 'Upper Temples' at Besakih are distinguished by their elevated position and profound spiritual importance. The most prominent among them is Pura Penataran Agung, often regarded as the main sanctuary of the entire complex and the largest temple. It is centrally located and terraced across seven levels, dedicated primarily to Sang Hyang Widi Wasa, the Supreme God in Balinese Hinduism, often manifested as Shiva, the Destroyer. Flanking this central temple are Pura Kiduling Kreteg, dedicated to Brahma (the Creator), and Pura Batu Madeg, dedicated to Vishnu (the Preserver), forming the sacred Hindu trinity (Trimurti). The unique terraced architecture of these upper temples, with their distinct shrines and ascending pathways, is designed to lead the spiritual person upward, both physically and symbolically, toward the sacred peak of Mount Agung, which is believed to be the dwelling place of the gods. This intentional design makes the journey through the upper parts of Besakih a powerful act of devotion and a unique architectural marvel, reflecting the close relationship between the Balinese people, their deities, and the natural world.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

One of the most compelling stories surrounding Besakih Temple is its miraculous survival of the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung. While devastating lava flows ravaged nearby villages, they inexplicably bypassed the main Besakih complex, leaving it largely untouched. This event was widely interpreted by the Balinese as a powerful demonstration of the gods' will and a sign of the temple's immense sacredness. Another fascinating detail connects the temple's name to the mythical dragon deity, Naga Besukian, believed to reside within Mount Agung's fiery heart. This ancient belief reinforces the temple's deep roots in Balinese mythology and its connection to the powerful volcano. Furthermore, Besakih holds a unique position as the only temple in Bali that is open to devotees from all caste groups, symbolizing unity and inclusivity within Balinese Hinduism. Annually, numerous vibrant ceremonies take place here, attracting tens of thousands of pilgrims who come to offer prayers and participate in rituals, especially during the ‘Ida Bhatara Turun Kabeh’ ceremony. The symmetrical serenity of the multi-tiered pagoda-like structures, known as 'Meru,' combined with colorful offerings and traditional Balinese fabrics, creates a truly immersive cultural experience.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting the 'Upper Temples' of Besakih is an unforgettable journey that engages both the mind and the spirit. As you ascend the multiple terraced levels, the sheer scale and intricate details of the complex unfold before you. The stone bases of some shrines resemble ancient megalithic pyramids, hinting at the temple's prehistoric foundations. The air often carries the scent of incense, and the gentle sounds of distant prayers or traditional music create an atmosphere of profound tranquility. While the main sanctuary of Pura Penataran Agung is typically reserved for worshipers, visitors can observe the vibrant ceremonies from designated areas, gaining a respectful insight into Balinese spiritual life. The views from the higher courtyards are spectacular, encompassing the surrounding valleys and providing a unique perspective on the majestic Mount Agung. Remember to dress modestly, as is customary for sacred sites, and be prepared for a series of steps that lead you upwards, symbolizing your spiritual progression. The experience offers a deep connection to Balinese culture, history, and spirituality, leaving a lasting impression of awe and reverence for this 'Mother Temple'.