Upper Flower Garden

Overview

Nestled behind the magnificent Kadriorg Palace in Tallinn, Estonia, lies the captivating Upper Flower Garden, a sub-spot that offers a serene escape and a glimpse into Baroque grandeur. This meticulously designed garden is an integral part of the larger Kadriorg Park ensemble, a testament to 18th-century landscape artistry. Imagine stepping into a living painting, where symmetrical parterres bloom with vibrant colors, and historical whispers echo among carefully sculpted greenery. The garden serves as a beautiful outdoor extension of the palace's elegant interior, inviting visitors to wander its paths and absorb its tranquil beauty.

As part of the expansive Kadriorg Park, which spans approximately 70 hectares, the Upper Flower Garden is a key feature of a complex that began its journey in 1718. It's a place where design techniques from various European countries—Italian terraces, Dutch canals, and French axial symmetry—converge, all while showcasing a selection of Russian flowers. Today, the park and its gardens are open to the public, offering a splendid fusion of nature, history, and art.

History & Cultural Background

The story of the Upper Flower Garden begins with Peter the Great, the Russian Tsar, who, after his victories in the Great Northern War, commissioned the construction of Kadriorg Palace in 1718 as a summer residence for his wife, Catherine I. The Italian architect Nicola Michetti was instrumental in its design, envisioning a three-level ensemble that included the Upper Gardens stretching across two terraces behind the palace.

The creation of the garden was a monumental task, aiming to extend the opulence of the palace's great hall directly into nature. Early plans included a parterre de broderie flower garden on the first terrace and an intricate Baroque Mirage pond on the second. Symmetrical layouts and a main axis connecting the gardens to the palace were central to Michetti's vision, demonstrating the Baroque ideal of harmony and order.

While Peter the Great did not live to see all his grand plans fully realized, the essence of his vision for a public royal park remained. Over the centuries, the garden underwent changes. Notably, in the late 1930s, the construction of the President's administrative building necessitated a remodeling. During this period, the original Mirage Pond was filled in, and a rose garden for the President was established in its place. However, dedicated restoration efforts, guided by 18th-century drawings and archaeological research, painstakingly brought the Baroque flower garden back to its former glory, reopening to the public in July 2000.

What Makes It Special

What sets the Upper Flower Garden apart is its masterful blend of formality and charm, characteristic of Baroque landscape design. The garden's layout, with its precisely arranged flowerbeds (parterres), fountains, and green galleries, was conceived as an outdoor room, an extension of the palace's interior. The 'stone flowers' within the palace were designed to transition seamlessly into the living blossoms of the garden, creating a continuous aesthetic experience.

A standout feature was the 'Mirage Wall' at the end of the garden, complete with a central cascade and water-spewing mascarons, designed to create a dramatic visual and auditory experience. Though the Mirage Pond itself was reshaped, its historical significance and the careful reconstruction of the surrounding elements make the area particularly poignant. In 2005, a bronze sculpture of Neptune by Mati Karmin was installed at the Mirage Wall Cascade, adding a modern touch to the historical setting.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

One charming anecdote from the garden's history involves King Gustav V of Sweden. In 1929, during a visit to Kadriorg Palace, he planted an oak tree in the Upper Garden, which stands proudly to this day. A memorial stone bearing his monogram, once thought lost, was serendipitously rediscovered during the garden's reconstruction in 1999, adding a tangible link to a royal past.

The original Mirage Pond, though now transformed into the President's rose garden, held a fascinating intention. It was strategically hidden behind rows of trees, meant to reveal itself gradually to strollers as a 'marvellous vision'—a truly theatrical element of Baroque design. The pond was even planned to feature a central islet adorned with sculptures of sea gods, an ambitious detail reflecting the era's taste for mythological grandeur.

A significant detail often overlooked is Peter the Great's decree that anyone interested could freely walk in the park. This meant that the royal park was a public space from its very inception, a surprisingly democratic gesture for an imperial estate, allowing early residents of Tallinn to enjoy its beauty.

Visitor Perspective

For the curious traveler, visiting the Upper Flower Garden is an experience of tranquility and historical immersion. As you stroll through its pathways, you can appreciate the intricate patterns of the flowerbeds and the deliberate symmetry that defines Baroque landscape architecture. The high walls and green galleries create a sense of both impressiveness and intimacy, allowing for quiet contemplation away from the bustle of the city.

The garden offers a peaceful contrast to the palace's interior art exhibits, providing a space for reflection amidst natural beauty. Whether you're admiring the seasonal blooms, imagining royal promenades, or simply enjoying the fresh air, the Upper Flower Garden provides a rich and rewarding experience. While there's no entrance fee for the park itself, the sheer elegance and historical depth of this particular garden make it a highlight for anyone exploring Kadriorg.