Underground Access

Overview

When exploring the ancient heart of Split, Croatia, visitors often seek out the 'Underground Access' within Diocletian's Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site. While the Temple of Jupiter, a prominent part of the palace complex, features its own underground crypt, the term 'Underground Access' most commonly refers to the expansive and remarkably preserved Basement Halls, also known as the Substructures, of Diocletian's Palace. These vast subterranean chambers lie directly beneath the Emperor's private apartments in the southern portion of the palace, serving as a foundational marvel that mirrors the layout of the imperial residences above.

These underground spaces offer a unique journey into Roman engineering and daily life, providing a cooler, atmospheric escape from the bustling modern city above. The main vaulted hall connects the Riva waterfront with the Peristyle, the central square of the palace, making it a natural pathway for exploration.

History & Cultural Background

The Basement Halls were constructed between 295 and 305 AD as an integral part of Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace. Their primary purpose was dual: to structurally support the opulent imperial living quarters situated on the upper floor, and to help level the sloping terrain of the peninsula upon which the palace was built.

Originally, these halls also functioned as storage areas for the palace's provisions, including foodstuffs and wine. Evidence of this past, such as parts of an ancient olive oil press, can still be found within.

For centuries following the fall of the Roman Empire, the substructures faced a rather ignominious fate; they were largely forgotten and gradually filled with debris and waste from the inhabitants living above. Paradoxically, this accumulation served as an unintentional preservation method, shielding the Roman infrastructure from decay and providing additional stability to the buildings.

The excavation and restoration efforts began in the 19th century, notably pioneered by architect and conservationist Vicko Andrić. Significant progress was made in the 1950s and 1960s, leading to the opening of the western halls to the public by 1959. The eastern sections were fully restored and accessible by 1995.

The Temple of Jupiter, located near the Peristyle, was also built during Diocletian's reign. In the 6th century, it underwent a transformation into the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist, and its crypt below was dedicated to St. Thomas.

What Makes It Special

The true marvel of the Basement Halls lies in their faithful replication of the floor plan of the imperial apartments that once stood above them. Since the upper levels have undergone significant changes over the centuries due to continuous habitation, these substructures offer the best-preserved glimpse into the original grandeur and layout of Diocletian's personal residence.

Walking through these massive vaulted halls and stone corridors, visitors can appreciate the sophisticated Roman engineering that allowed such a complex structure to endure for nearly two millennia. The scale and preserved late-Roman masonry are truly impressive, offering a tangible connection to an ancient civilization.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The Basement Halls hold a unique place in popular culture, notably serving as a filming location for scenes in the popular TV series 'Game of Thrones'. Fans might recognize these atmospheric chambers as Daenerys Targaryen's throne room and dragon dungeon in Meereen. This connection has added another layer of intrigue for many visitors.

Historically, locals sometimes referred to these substructures as 'Grote' and, through popular belief, perceived them as dungeons where Emperor Diocletian tortured Christians. While archeological findings suggest their primary use was structural and for storage, these tales add to the mystique of the underground world.

Another fascinating detail is how the unintentional filling of the cellars with refuse during the Middle Ages preserved them. What was once a practical space for the emperor became, centuries later, a hidden time capsule due to human neglect.

Visitor Perspective

A visit to the Basement Halls is an essential part of understanding Diocletian's Palace and the history of Split. Entering through the Bronze (Brass) Gate from the Riva waterfront or descending from the Peristyle, travelers step into a world of ancient stone and cool, dim light.

The central passage often features local artisans selling souvenirs, maintaining a sense of lively commerce that echoes centuries past. Deeper into the side rooms, the atmosphere becomes more museum-like, showcasing excavated artifacts and providing a quieter space for reflection.

It is recommended to allow 45-60 minutes for a comprehensive visit. The underground environment is typically cooler than outside, making it a comfortable experience even on warm days. For those seeking a deeper understanding, guided tours often illuminate the historical nuances and stories embedded within these ancient walls.