Tri Šešira Restaurant

Overview

Nestled within the enchanting cobblestone streets of Skadarlija, Belgrade's historic bohemian quarter, lies the legendary 'Tri Šešira' Restaurant. Translated as 'Three Hats,' this iconic establishment has been a vibrant cornerstone of Serbian culture and gastronomy for over a century and a half. It stands as a living testament to the artistic spirit that defines Skadarlija, drawing in visitors with its rustic charm, traditional Serbian cuisine, and lively atmosphere.

Stepping into Tri Šešira is akin to stepping back in time, where the echoes of poets, artists, and dignitaries still resonate. The restaurant is celebrated not just for its delectable dishes but also for its immersive cultural experience, complete with live traditional music that fills the air almost every evening.

History & Cultural Background

The story of Tri Šešira is deeply intertwined with that of Skadarlija itself, a district often likened to Paris's Montmartre. Skadarlija began its life in the early 19th century as a humble settlement and evolved into a bustling hub for Belgrade's intellectual and artistic elite by the late 1800s. Its taverns and cafes became preferred gathering places for poets, writers, actors, and painters, fostering a unique bohemian spirit.

Tri Šešira opened its doors in 1864, taking over a former craft workshop whose distinctive logo featured three tin hats, thus giving the restaurant its memorable name. As Belgrade's nightlife shifted to Skadarlija in the early 20th century, particularly after the demolition of the famous 'Dardaneli' tavern, Tri Šešira emerged as a central meeting point. Over the decades, it hosted some of Serbia's most influential cultural figures, including writers like Đura Jakšić and Branislav Nušić, whose presence helped cement the restaurant's legendary status.

What Makes It Special

Tri Šešira's enduring appeal lies in its authentic preservation of a bygone era. Unlike many modern establishments, it has maintained its vintage appearance and traditional character, offering a genuine taste of old Belgrade. The ambiance is a deliberate blend of history and hospitality, characterized by antique wooden furnishings, traditional Serbian decor, and an inviting terrace that bustles with cheerful conversations.

Central to its unique charm is the nightly presence of live Serbian folk music. Tamburitza orchestras roam among the tables, playing traditional tunes that encourage diners to linger, creating an upbeat and festive atmosphere that transforms a meal into an event. This musical tradition is a hallmark of the Skadarlija experience, making Tri Šešira a vibrant cultural landmark.

The menu at Tri Šešira is a celebration of traditional Serbian cuisine, featuring hearty, authentic dishes prepared from recipes passed down through generations. Guests can indulge in local favorites such as ćevapi (grilled minced meat), pljeskavica (Serbian-style burger), sarma (cabbage rolls), and Karađorđeva šnicla (a rolled veal or pork cutlet). These dishes are often accompanied by traditional spreads like ajvar and kajmak, along with a selection of regional wines and the potent local brandy, rakija.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The walls of Tri Šešira could tell countless stories, having witnessed the joys, debates, and inspirations of generations. Many prominent figures, from local artists to international dignitaries, have graced its tables. King Juan Carlos of Spain, former US President George Bush, and German Chancellor Willy Brandt are among the notable guests whose visits are recorded in the restaurant's guestbook.

One of Skadarlija's most beloved residents, the poet Đura Jakšić, who lived just across the street, was a regular patron and affectionately referred to Tri Šešira as his 'wine well.' His presence, and that of many other creative minds, contributed to the restaurant becoming a fertile ground for artistic expression, where literary works were conceived and political discussions unfolded. It's even said that the idea for the newspaper 'Politika' was conceived under its roof in 1904.

The restaurant's commitment to its heritage is evident in every detail, from the decor to the musical performances, which ensure that the bohemian spirit of Skadarlija continues to thrive. It's a place where tradition is not just observed but actively relived, making it a unique cultural treasure in Belgrade.

Visitor Perspective

For a curious traveler, a visit to Tri Šešira offers a rich, multi-sensory experience that goes beyond mere dining. It's an invitation to immerse oneself in Serbian culture, history, and hospitality. The generous portions of flavorful, traditional food, combined with the warm service and the captivating live music, create a truly memorable evening.

While the atmosphere is lively, it retains a cozy and historic charm, making it suitable for both groups and those seeking a special dinner. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during weekends and peak tourist seasons, to secure a spot at this popular establishment. Whether enjoying a meal inside its character-filled halls or on its charming outdoor terrace, Tri Šešira provides an authentic and engaging glimpse into Belgrade's bohemian heart.