Tri Šešira Restaurant

Overview

Nestled within the charming cobblestone streets of Skadarlija, Belgrade's historic bohemian quarter, lies the legendary restaurant Tri Šešira. Meaning 'Three Hats' in Serbian, this iconic establishment has served as a cultural landmark and a vibrant hub of tradition for over 150 years. It is not merely a place to eat, but an immersive experience, inviting travelers to step into a bygone era of art, music, and convivial gatherings. Situated in the very heart of Skadarska Street, Tri Šešira is a living testament to Belgrade's rich past and its enduring bohemian spirit.

Skadarlija itself is often likened to Paris' Montmartre, a comparison that speaks volumes about its artistic and free-spirited essence. As the second most visited tourist attraction in Belgrade after Kalemegdan Fortress, Skadarlija draws visitors seeking an authentic glimpse into the city's soul. Tri Šešira stands proudly as one of its oldest and most cherished establishments, a true pearl among the area's many traditional 'kafanas' (taverns).

History & Cultural Background

The story of Skadarlija begins in the early 19th century as a humble settlement. Originally inhabited by Roma people, it later transformed into a vibrant quarter, attracting artisans, caterers, and clerks. The street was officially named Skadarska Street in 1872, replacing its earlier moniker, 'Gypsy Quarter'. The bohemian character of Skadarlija truly blossomed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This shift was significantly propelled in 1901 when the famed Dardaneli inn, a popular gathering spot for Belgrade's writers and actors, was demolished. Its artistic clientele migrated to the kafanas of Skadarlija, with Tri Šešira becoming a central hub for this burgeoning cultural scene.

Tri Šešira itself opened its doors in 1864. Its unique name originates from the building's previous life as a craft workshop that prominently displayed three tin hats as its logo. When the workshop closed and the kafana opened, the hats remained, and locals affectionately began referring to the new establishment as 'Tri Šešira'. Since 1967, Skadarlija has been legally protected as a spatial cultural-historical unit, preserving its unique ambiance for generations.

What Makes It Special

What sets Tri Šešira apart is its unwavering commitment to preserving the authentic spirit of Belgrade's bohemian past. Guests are greeted by an atmosphere of old-world charm, complete with vintage décor and candlelit tables, creating a feeling of stepping back in time. The restaurant is renowned for its traditional Serbian cuisine, offering a hearty and flavorful journey through local gastronomy. Specialties like generous portions of grilled meats, including 'ćevapi' and 'pljeskavica', rich 'Sarma' (stuffed cabbage rolls), and the famous 'Karadjordjeva šnicla' (a breaded pork steak roll stuffed with kajmak), are staples on the menu. Accompanying these delectable dishes is a wide selection of beverages, notably an array of local 'rakija' (fruit brandy).

However, the true magic of Tri Šešira comes alive with its live traditional music. Every evening, 'tamburaši' (musicians playing traditional string instruments) serenade diners, filling the air with soulful melodies and creating an unforgettable celebratory ambiance. This blend of classic flavors, generous hospitality, and vibrant music transforms a meal into a full cultural immersion.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Tri Šešira's walls hold countless stories of notable figures who sought inspiration and camaraderie within its lively confines. Many celebrated Serbian writers, poets, and actors, including Đura Jakšić (who lived across the street and famously called the restaurant a 'wine well'), Branislav Nušić, Tin Ujević, and Čiča Ilija Stanojević, were regular patrons.

Beyond local luminaries, Tri Šešira has had the honor of hosting a long list of international dignitaries and celebrities. Its guest book boasts names such as King Juan Carlos I of Spain, former US President George H.W. Bush, Willy Brandt, and Sandro Pertini. Fascinating anecdotes abound; it is said that the idea for the renowned Serbian newspaper 'Politika' was conceived within these very walls in 1904. Another tale recounts how a Skadarlian fortune teller, actress Ljubica Janićijević, predicted Margaret Thatcher's rise to statesmanship at one of the restaurant's tables. Even legendary film director Alfred Hitchcock is rumored to have broken his diet in Skadarlija, captivated by its culinary delights. These tales, passed down through generations, contribute to the restaurant's mystique and charm.

Visitor Perspective

For the curious traveler, a visit to Tri Šešira is an essential part of experiencing Belgrade. It offers a genuine window into the city's unique 'kafana' culture, where good food, strong drinks, and spirited music intertwine to create a memorable evening. While some online discussions acknowledge that the area has become increasingly tourist-oriented, with prices reflecting its popularity, many agree that the unique ambiance, live music, and overall experience at Tri Šešira remain unparalleled for an authentic bohemian evening.

It is advisable to approach a visit to Tri Šešira not just as a meal, but as an immersion into a vibrant cultural tradition. Come prepared to linger, to soak in the lively atmosphere, and to enjoy the traditional music that often encourages spontaneous dancing and revelry. Reservations are highly recommended, especially on weekends or during peak tourist seasons, to secure a table in this beloved and historically significant establishment. Tri Šešira is an invitation to celebrate the 'art of living' – a sentiment deeply ingrained in the heart of Skadarlija.