St Giles’ Cathedral

Overview

Nestled on Edinburgh's historic Royal Mile, halfway between the commanding Edinburgh Castle and the regal Palace of Holyroodhouse, stands St Giles’ Cathedral, often referred to as the High Kirk of Edinburgh. Its distinctive crown steeple, a recognisable feature of the city's skyline, beckons visitors to explore centuries of Scottish history. More than just an architectural marvel, St Giles’ has served as a pivotal spiritual and civic centre for over 900 years, earning its reputation as the 'Mother Church of Presbyterianism'. It is a living, working church that seamlessly blends its rich past with its present role as a vibrant cultural landmark.

History & Cultural Background

The origins of St Giles’ trace back to King David I, who founded a church on this site around 1124 or 1130. It was dedicated to Saint Giles, the patron saint of lepers and, eventually, of Edinburgh itself. The initial Romanesque structure gave way to the current Gothic edifice, which began construction in the 14th century and saw further enlargements into the early 16th century. A significant event in its early history was the sacking and burning by English troops under King Richard II in 1385, the scorch marks from which were visible on pillars until later restorations.

In 1466, St Giles’ achieved prestigious collegiate status granted by Pope Paul II. However, its most transformative period came with the Scottish Reformation in the mid-16th century. John Knox, a leading figure of the Reformation, preached his first sermon here in 1559 and subsequently became its minister, turning St Giles’ into a focal point for the establishment of Protestantism in Scotland. Despite its popular name, St Giles’ has only formally held 'cathedral' status for two brief periods in the 17th century when episcopacy was enforced by the Crown. Today, as a Church of Scotland institution, it is technically a 'High Kirk', presided over by a minister rather than a bishop.

The 19th century brought extensive restorations, notably by William Burn between 1829 and 1833, and a grander refurbishment between 1872 and 1883 led by William Chambers, who envisioned St Giles’ as a 'Westminster Abbey for Scotland'. These efforts stripped away partitions that had divided the church into multiple congregations and even secular spaces after the Reformation, restoring it closer to its unified form today.

What Makes It Special

St Giles’ Cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, showcasing intricate stonework and a soaring crown steeple that dates back to the 15th century. This unique architectural feature, an open spire with eight flying buttresses, mimics the Scottish crown, symbolising royal connections.

Inside, the Thistle Chapel is a breathtaking highlight, added between 1909 and 1911. This exquisitely decorated chapel serves as the spiritual home for the Knights of the Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle, Scotland's highest order of chivalry. Its neo-Gothic design features incredibly detailed wood carvings, including angels playing musical instruments, one famously depicted with bagpipes, and a spectacular gold-leaf ceiling.

The cathedral's interior is further enhanced by its magnificent stained-glass windows, many dating from the 19th century, which illuminate the space with vibrant colours and depict scenes from biblical stories and pivotal moments in Scottish history, including a window dedicated to Robert Burns. Beyond its aesthetics, St Giles’ houses nearly 200 memorials dedicated to distinguished Scots, reflecting its deep ties to the nation's heritage.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

St Giles’ is steeped in stories that bring Scotland's history to life. One such tale involves Jenny Geddes, a street vendor famously credited with starting a riot in 1637 by throwing her stool at the Dean of Edinburgh in protest against the imposition of a new English prayer book by King Charles I. This audacious act is said to have ignited the Bishops’ Wars and contributed to the wider Wars of the Three Kingdoms. A three-legged bronze milking stool within the church commemorates her legendary defiance.

Another curious detail concerns the resting place of John Knox. The influential reformer, who served as minister at St Giles’, is believed to be buried in what is now parking bay 23 in the car park on the south side of the church, a rather unassuming final resting place for such a pivotal figure. The building has also served unusual purposes; at one point after the Reformation, Edinburgh's guillotine, 'the Maiden', was stored within its walls.

Outside the west entrance of St Giles’, visitors will find the 'Heart of Midlothian', a heart-shaped mosaic set in the cobblestones. This marks the site of the Old Tolbooth, a former administrative centre and notorious prison. Locals traditionally spit on the Heart for good luck, a curious custom that dates back to showing disdain for the prison. In more recent history, St Giles' played a significant role in national mourning, hosting the lying-in-rest of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 2022.

Visitor Perspective

Located prominently on the Royal Mile, St Giles’ Cathedral is an unmissable stop for any traveler exploring Edinburgh's Old Town. Its grand exterior and the soaring crown steeple are captivating, but stepping inside reveals an even richer experience. Visitors can wander through the expansive nave, admire the intricate stained-glass windows, and discover the many memorials that tell stories of Scotland's past.

The Thistle Chapel is a must-see, offering a glimpse into a world of exquisite craftsmanship and chivalric tradition. To fully appreciate the cathedral's profound history, consider joining one of the free guided tours offered daily, led by knowledgeable volunteers. Audio tours are also available, providing flexibility to explore at one's own pace. St Giles’ is an active place of worship, offering moments of quiet reflection, but also serves as a vibrant venue for concerts and cultural events. The cathedral is accessible, with wheelchair access provided at the west door.