St Bernard’s Well

Overview

Tucked away along the serene banks of the Water of Leith, between Edinburgh's historic Dean Village and the vibrant Stockbridge area, lies the captivating St Bernard's Well. More than just a spring, this neoclassical rotunda stands as a magnificent architectural gem, evoking the grandeur of ancient Roman temples amidst a lush, natural setting. Visitors following the picturesque Water of Leith Walkway will discover this unexpected marvel, a testament to Edinburgh's rich history and its enduring connection to the natural world.

Originally built to house a natural mineral spring, St Bernard's Well gained fame for its purported healing properties, drawing people for centuries to 'take the waters' in search of wellness. Today, while the water is no longer for consumption, the site remains a tranquil retreat, inviting contemplation of its storied past and the beauty of its design. It's a place where history, architecture, and nature converge, offering a unique glimpse into the Scottish Enlightenment and Victorian-era health trends.

History & Cultural Background

The story of St Bernard's Well begins with a serendipitous discovery. Around 1760, schoolboys fishing along the Water of Leith stumbled upon a natural spring bubbling up from the earth. However, local legend traces the spring's origins even further back, to the 12th century, attributing its name to St Bernard of Clairvaux. This monk, it is said, found solace and healing in the spring's waters while residing in a nearby cave, supposedly blessing its restorative powers.

The spring's reputation for medicinal benefits grew, and in 1788-1789, Lord Gardenstone, a senator and staunch anti-slavery campaigner, acquired the well. Convinced of the water's efficacy, he commissioned the renowned Scottish landscape painter Alexander Nasmyth to design a structure to enshrine it. Nasmyth, inspired by his travels and the classical architecture of the Temple of Vesta at Tivoli, Italy, created the circular, Roman-style temple we see today. This elegant design, featuring ten Doric columns and a domed roof, became a symbol of the Scottish Enlightenment's appreciation for classical ideals and natural philosophy.

Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, Edinburgh embraced spa culture, and St Bernard's Well became a fashionable destination. People sought cures for various ailments, from gout and arthritis to digestive troubles, believing the sulfurous, mineral-rich waters held the key to good health. The well underwent a significant refurbishment in 1885 by publisher William Nelson, who later gifted it to the city of Edinburgh. This restoration included an exquisitely decorated interior with a mosaic ceiling and a statue of Hygeia, the Greek goddess of health.

What Makes It Special

St Bernard's Well stands out not only for its historical significance but also for its striking aesthetic. The neoclassical temple, with its elegant Doric columns and domed roof, topped by a golden pineapple—a traditional symbol of hospitality—is a remarkable piece of outdoor art. Inside, a statue of Hygeia, the Greek goddess of health, gracefully presides over the spring, holding her serpent-entwined staff, reminding visitors of the well's original purpose.

Its location, nestled within the deep valley of the Water of Leith, surrounded by lush woodland and picturesque scenery, provides a sense of seclusion and timelessness. It feels almost 'otherworldly,' transporting visitors away from the bustling city into a peaceful, almost forgotten realm.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

• The Taste of Health: Despite its healing reputation, the spring water was famously described as having an 'odious twang of hydrogen gas' or even tasting like 'the washings of foul gun barrels.' This didn't deter many from drinking it, especially when mixed with coffee.
• Frankenstein's Acknowledgment: St Bernard's Well earned a notable mention in literature. Mary Shelley's iconic novel, 'Frankenstein,' features a reference to the well, with Victor Frankenstein himself admiring its beauty alongside other Edinburgh landmarks.
• A Symbol of Philanthropy: The grand refurbishment in the late 19th century by William Nelson, who subsequently gifted the well to the people of Edinburgh, is commemorated by a plaque bearing the message, 'The Liberal deviseth liberal things.'
• The Pineapple's Meaning: The golden pineapple adorning the dome is not merely decorative; it serves as a historic symbol of hospitality, offering a warm welcome to all who approach.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting St Bernard's Well offers a tranquil escape and a journey back in time. While the interior, with its stunning mosaic ceiling and the statue of Hygeia, is generally closed to the public, it occasionally opens on select days, such as Doors Open Days or during the Edinburgh Arts Festival. The exterior, however, is always accessible and a sight to behold. Approaching the well via the Water of Leith Walkway, whether from Dean Village or Stockbridge, is part of the experience, with the path meandering through natural beauty before revealing the temple.

It is best appreciated as a serene architectural feature within a beautiful natural landscape, providing excellent photo opportunities and a peaceful spot for reflection. It's a hidden gem, often missed by those sticking to more conventional tourist routes, making its discovery all the more rewarding for curious travelers. The distinct smell of sulfur, a subtle reminder of the water's past, can sometimes still be detected near the well. For those seeking to connect with Edinburgh's historical and cultural depth beyond the main attractions, St Bernard's Well is an enriching and contemplative stop.