Princes Street Views

Overview

Towering majestically over the vibrant Princes Street Gardens in Edinburgh, the Scott Monument is a striking Victorian Gothic masterpiece and an unmistakable silhouette against the Scottish sky. Dedicated to the literary giant Sir Walter Scott, this imposing structure stands as one of the largest monuments ever erected to a writer globally, a testament to his profound influence. From its various viewing platforms, visitors are treated to unparalleled 'Princes Street Views', encompassing the bustling thoroughfare, the serene gardens, and extending to iconic city landmarks.

The monument rises to a height of over 61 meters (200 feet) and features a series of spiral staircases, with varying reports on the exact number of steps, generally cited between 221 and 287, leading to multiple galleries. Each ascent offers increasingly breathtaking vistas, culminating in sweeping panoramic views that capture the essence of Edinburgh, from the historic Old Town and Edinburgh Castle to the modern New Town, Calton Hill, and even the distant Firth of Forth.

History & Cultural Background

The story of the Scott Monument begins in the wake of Sir Walter Scott's death in 1832, when the people of Edinburgh sought to honour his immense contributions to Scottish literature. A competition was launched in 1836 to find a suitable design, which was controversially won by George Meikle Kemp, a self-taught architect and carpenter who submitted his plans under the pseudonym 'John Morvo' due to his lack of formal qualifications. Construction commenced in 1840, but tragically, Kemp drowned in a canal before the monument's completion in 1846.

Crafted from Binny sandstone quarried in West Lothian, the monument's intricate detailing has acquired a distinctive dark hue over the centuries, largely due to soot and atmospheric pollution. At its base, nestled within the monument's arches, rests a magnificent white Carrara marble statue of Sir Walter Scott himself, seated with his beloved deerhound, Maida, by his side, sculpted by Sir John Steell. This striking white figure provides a stark and beautiful contrast to the monument's darkened stone.

The monument's presence profoundly underscores Scott's cultural significance. His 'Waverley' novels were so impactful that Edinburgh's central railway station was named Waverley Station in their honour. Princes Street itself, alongside which the monument stands, is a key artery of Edinburgh's New Town, laid out in the late 18th century as part of James Craig's grand architectural vision and named after the sons of King George III. The Princes Street Gardens, now a tranquil green space, were historically the Nor Loch, a marshland drained in the 19th century that once served as a defensive feature for Edinburgh Castle.

What Makes It Special

Beyond its sheer scale and architectural grandeur, the Scott Monument is special for the stories it tells, both of its subject and its city. Its Gothic spires and intricate carvings feature 68 statues, many depicting characters from Scott's renowned novels, along with effigies of other Scottish poets, creating a sculptural narrative that invites closer inspection.

The views from the monument's galleries are truly what set it apart. From the lowest gallery, visitors gain a broad perspective of Princes Street, observing the daily life of Edinburgh unfold against the backdrop of the New Town's elegant architecture and the historic Balmoral Hotel clock tower. Ascending higher, the perspectives shift, revealing the sweep of Waverley Station, the majestic Calton Hill, and the dramatic silhouette of Edinburgh Castle. The experience offers a unique vantage point to appreciate the planned beauty of the New Town juxtaposed with the ancient ruggedness of the Old Town.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Locals affectionately refer to the Scott Monument as the 'Gothic Rocket', a nickname famously coined by American author Bill Bryson, which perfectly captures its distinctive appearance. The tragic death of its architect, George Meikle Kemp, before his grand design was fully realised, adds a poignant layer to its history. Inside, the first-level museum room features beautiful stained-glass windows depicting Saints Andrew and Giles, along with the coats of arms for the city of Edinburgh and Scotland, offering a colourful glimpse into Scottish heritage.

Sir Walter Scott's loyal companion, Maida, a deerhound, immortalised beside him in Sir John Steell's marble statue, speaks to the author's personal life and connection to the Scottish landscape. The monument's status as one of the world's largest tributes to a writer is a source of immense national pride, reflecting Scotland's deep literary roots. Furthermore, Princes Street itself is unique in that it has buildings predominantly on only one side, a deliberate design choice made in the New Town plan to preserve the open views towards Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town, creating an unrivalled urban vista.

Visitor Perspective

While the reward of the Princes Street Views from the Scott Monument is immense, the journey to the top is an experience in itself. The ascent involves navigating narrow, spiral staircases, which can be challenging, particularly for those with claustrophobia or mobility concerns. However, the several distinct viewing platforms offer natural breaks, allowing climbers to catch their breath and savour the unfolding panorama.

Upon reaching the higher levels, the views are undeniably spectacular, providing a true 360-degree perspective of Edinburgh and its surroundings. The top can be quite windy, so visitors are advised to secure their belongings while enjoying the open-air spectacle. On the first level, a small museum room provides fascinating insights into Sir Walter Scott's life and work, adding historical context to the monument itself. Tickets for the climb are typically purchased on the day at the monument's base, with online booking usually unavailable.