Place du Tertre

Overview

Nestled atop the Butte Montmartre in Paris, France, Place du Tertre is an iconic square renowned for its vibrant artistic atmosphere and rich history. Just a short stroll from the magnificent Sacré-Cœur Basilica, it serves as the pulsating heart of the Montmartre district. This charming, cobbled public square is a living testament to Montmartre's enduring bohemian spirit, where painters and caricaturists continue a tradition that has thrived for over a century. Visitors are drawn to its unique ambiance, a captivating blend of nostalgia, spectacle, and artistic creation unfolding in the open air.

History & Cultural Background

The origins of Place du Tertre stretch back to the 12th century, when it was part of the prestigious Benedictine Montmartre Abbey, established in 1133 by King Louis VI. The square itself was officially opened to the public in 1635, initially serving as Montmartre village's central square. For centuries, Montmartre remained a pastoral village, quite distinct from the bustling city of Paris below.

However, from the late 18th century through the early 20th century, Montmartre transformed into the epicenter of Paris's artistic avant-garde. Its affordable rents and a more relaxed lifestyle attracted a constellation of renowned artists, including Pablo Picasso, Vincent van Gogh, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Maurice Utrillo, and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Place du Tertre quickly became their meeting point and a creative battleground, buzzing with discussions about art, life, and the future. It played a significant role in movements like Cubism, with artists like Picasso experimenting with new forms of expression within this vibrant community.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets Place du Tertre apart is its role as a dynamic, open-air art studio. Approximately 140 licensed artists are allotted small spaces, typically one square meter, to display and create their work on alternating days. This regulated system ensures a continuous presence of artistic talent, offering visitors a unique opportunity to witness art being made in real-time. The square is filled with easels, showcasing a diverse range of styles from moody oil portraits and airy watercolors to detailed caricatures and silhouettes. This direct engagement with artists, where one can commission a personal portrait or purchase an original piece, creates an immersive and interactive cultural experience that is increasingly rare. The constant artistic activity, combined with the surrounding cafes and restaurants, generates a lively, energetic ambiance that captures the essence of historic Montmartre.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Place du Tertre is steeped in fascinating lore. One enduring legend claims that the word 'bistro' originated here in 1814 at La Mère Catherine, one of the square's oldest restaurants. During the Russian occupation of Paris, Cossack soldiers would supposedly shout 'bystro!' (Russian for 'quickly') at waiters, urging them to serve their drinks faster before rejoining their ranks. Today, competition for an artist's spot in the square is intense, with a waiting list often extending to about ten years. Artists must adhere to strict guidelines, selling only paintings, portraits, caricatures, and silhouettes. The square also holds a place in automotive history; on Christmas Eve 1898, Louis Renault famously drove one of his new motor cars up the steep hill to Place du Tertre, a notable feat for early automobiles. Beyond the square, the nearby Musée de Montmartre, once home to Renoir, and the Espace Salvador Dalí museum further highlight the area's profound artistic legacy.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting Place du Tertre is an experience that appeals to all senses. You can wander through the rows of easels, observe artists at work, and perhaps even sit for a portrait or caricature, creating a truly personal souvenir. While the square can be quite crowded, especially during peak hours, visiting early in the morning before 11:00 AM or later in the evening after 5:00 PM can offer a more relaxed atmosphere. Engaging with the artists is encouraged, and many are happy to discuss their work. The square is surrounded by charming cafes and restaurants, perfect for soaking in the ambiance, though it's wise to note that prices can be higher in this popular tourist area. Place du Tertre is conveniently located close to other Montmartre attractions, such as the Sacré-Cœur Basilica and the Musée de Montmartre, making it an essential stop on any exploration of this historic Parisian neighborhood. Access is easy via the Paris Metro (Abbesses or Anvers stations) followed by a walk or a ride on the Montmartre funicular.