Place du Tertre

Overview

Nestled atop the scenic Butte Montmartre in Paris, France, Place du Tertre is a vibrant square renowned globally as the 'Artists' Square'. It's a key destination within the larger Montmartre district, just a short stroll from the iconic Sacré-Cœur Basilica. This lively plaza embodies a bohemian spirit and buzzes with creative energy, making it a must-visit for travelers seeking an authentic Parisian experience. Situated at one of the highest points in Paris, approximately 130 meters above sea level, Place du Tertre also offers picturesque views of the city.

Today, the square is famously filled with painters, portraitists, and caricaturists who set up their easels daily, carrying on a long-standing artistic tradition. Surrounding this open-air studio are charming cafes and restaurants, creating a quintessential Parisian atmosphere for visitors to soak in.

History & Cultural Background

The history of Montmartre, and by extension Place du Tertre, stretches back to Roman times, with Montmartre's name originating from 'Mons Martis' or 'Mountain of Mars'. Place du Tertre itself served as the heart of the prestigious Benedictine Montmartre Abbey, established in 1133. It was formally opened to the public as Montmartre village's central square in 1635.

However, it was in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, during the period known as the Belle Époque, that Place du Tertre truly flourished as an artistic haven. Artists such as Pablo Picasso, Vincent van Gogh, Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, Amedeo Modigliani, Maurice Utrillo, and Henri Matisse were drawn to Montmartre's affordable lifestyle and inspiring atmosphere. They sought both inspiration and community in its lively streets and cafes, with Place du Tertre becoming an epicenter of this artistic revolution. The square's name 'Tertre' literally translates to 'small hill' or 'mound', a simple yet accurate description of its elevated location.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets Place du Tertre apart is its enduring identity as a living, breathing art studio. Day in and day out, numerous artists display and create their works directly on the square, offering everything from landscapes and abstract pieces to personalized portraits and caricatures. These artists are not just casual vendors; they are licensed by the city and must adhere to strict regulations to maintain their coveted spots. The competition for these spaces is intense, with a reported waiting list of up to ten years to secure a spot. Each artist is typically allotted a small, one-square-meter area, often shared with another artist on alternating days, underscoring the exclusivity and tradition of the square's artistic community.

Beyond the art, the square's charm is amplified by its array of cafes and restaurants that line its perimeter, offering perfect spots for people-watching and soaking in the bohemian ambiance. Its proximity to significant landmarks like the Sacré-Cœur Basilica and the historic Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre further cements its special place in Parisian culture.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

• The Birth of the 'Bistro': Legend has it that the word 'bistro' originated at La Mère Catherine, one of the oldest restaurants on Place du Tertre. In 1814, during the Russian occupation of Paris, Cossack soldiers would reportedly shout 'bystro!', meaning 'quickly' in Russian, to hurry the service for their drinks.
• Artistic Residency Requirements: Becoming an artist on Place du Tertre is a highly competitive endeavor, requiring artists to submit their work to the 18th Arrondissement town hall and often enduring a lengthy waiting list for a concession. This ensures a level of quality and preserves the square's artistic heritage.
• Montmartre's Rural Past: Before becoming the artistic hub it is today, Montmartre was a quaint village characterized by farms, vineyards, and windmills, existing largely outside the direct control of Paris.
• First Town Hall: The first town hall of the ancient village of Montmartre was established at number 3, Place du Tertre, in 1790. This building is also affectionately known as 'Poulbot House', referencing the local children (P'tits Poulbots) popularized in Belle Époque drawings.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting Place du Tertre offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in Parisian art and culture. Travelers can directly engage with artists, watching them create, commissioning a personalized portrait or caricature, or purchasing an original piece to take home as a memorable souvenir. While the square maintains a lively and bustling atmosphere throughout the day, particularly between 10 am and 6 pm when most artists are present, it can also become quite crowded. For a more relaxed experience with fewer crowds, an early morning or late afternoon visit is often recommended.

When considering a purchase, it's worth noting that haggling for prices on art is a common practice here. As Montmartre is known for its hilly terrain, wearing comfortable shoes is advisable to fully enjoy exploring the square and its surrounding charming streets. While some visitors find the area can feel very touristy with potentially higher prices for food and art, many agree that the unparalleled atmosphere and the chance to witness art being made in such a historically significant setting make it an unmissable part of any trip to Paris.