Passageways

Overview

Step into the heart of Salzburg, Austria, and discover the enchanting Getreidegasse, a bustling street renowned for its historic charm and, most notably, its intricate network of 'Passageways' or 'Durchhäuser'. These unique architectural features are more than just shortcuts; they are an integral part of the city's character, offering a journey through time and a glimpse into Salzburg's rich past. Winding through the ground floors of tall, narrow townhouses, these public passages connect Getreidegasse to parallel streets and hidden courtyards, inviting curious travelers to explore their secrets.

As you wander through the Getreidegasse, with its distinctive wrought-iron guild signs hanging above the shops, the passageways serve as intriguing invitations to delve deeper. Each 'Durchhaus' reveals a new dimension of the Old Town, transforming a simple stroll into an engaging exploration of history, architecture, and local life.

History & Cultural Background

The history of Getreidegasse, and by extension its passageways, stretches back to Roman times when it was an important trade route. First mentioned in 1150 as 'Trabgasse', a name thought to derive from a dialect word meaning 'to be in a hurry' or 'to trot', it evolved into a vibrant commercial hub.

The concept of these 'Durchhäuser' arose from practical necessity and urban development. Until the mid-16th century, a large green space known as the 'Frongarten' lay between Getreidegasse and the Mönchsberg mountain. As Salzburg expanded, archbishops permitted a second row of houses to be built, effectively shrinking the 'Frongarten'. These new buildings were constructed so close together that creating traditional cross-streets became impossible. To maintain connectivity and facilitate trade and daily life, the ingenious solution was to create public thoroughfares directly through the opulent private homes, forming the 'Passageways' we see today.

These passages also played a crucial role in the city's infrastructure. In earlier centuries, Getreidegasse was cleaned by flooding it with water from the Alm canal every Saturday evening and before holidays. The passageways, particularly those connecting to the Salzach River, were vital in draining this water and the associated waste from the street.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets the Passageways of Getreidegasse apart is their unique blend of historical utility and aesthetic charm. Stepping into one is like entering a different world, often cooler and quieter than the bustling main street. They are characterized by their vaulted ceilings, often paved with Untersberg marble, and lead to picturesque inner courtyards.

These courtyards are often adorned with historical elements such as splendid arcades, marble balustrades, stone reliefs, and elaborate cornices, showcasing the architectural styles of various eras. Each 'Durchhaus' can reveal a new visual treat, from intricate ironwork to inscriptions and crests of former owners. Today, many of these passageways have been transformed into intimate shopping arcades or house charming cafes and boutiques, creating a delightful experience for visitors.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The very name 'Getreidegasse' meaning 'Grain Alley', is a fun historical anomaly, as it has nothing to do with grain. Its evolution from 'Trabgasse' reflects the lively, hurried pace of merchants and residents throughout its history.

One particularly intriguing detail can be found in the 'Schatz-Durchhaus' (Passageway No. 3), where, near the entrance, a whale rib and a dried shark hang from the roof. These unique items are remnants of a clever 14th-century marketing campaign by the Mayr'scher Kolonialwarenhandel, a colonial goods store, and were later even used as props in the Salzburg Festival.

The Passageways are also beloved by locals for their original purpose: providing convenient shortcuts through the dense urban fabric. Salzburgers are known to 'disappear' into one passageway and 'reappear' on a different street, showcasing their intimate knowledge of these hidden routes. Some passageways lead southwest towards Universitätsplatz (University Square), while others head towards the Griesgasse and the Salzach River.

And, of course, no mention of Getreidegasse is complete without acknowledging its most famous resident: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. His birthplace at Getreidegasse No. 9 is a highlight of the street, adding another layer of historical significance to the area.

Visitor Perspective

For the modern traveler, exploring the Passageways of Getreidegasse is an essential part of the Salzburg experience. They offer a reprieve from the main street's bustle, allowing for moments of quiet discovery. Each passage promises a unique architectural narrative and a chance to stumble upon hidden gems, from artisan shops and traditional eateries to quiet courtyards perfect for a coffee break.

These 'Durchhäuser' encourage a slower, more immersive way of experiencing the Old Town. By simply stepping into one, you engage with centuries of history, becoming part of the ongoing story of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. They are not merely conduits but destinations in themselves, brimming with character and untold tales, making every turn a potential new discovery.