Parliament Square

Overview

Nestled within Edinburgh's iconic Royal Mile, Parliament Square is a historically rich sub-spot that serves as the enduring heart of Scotland's political, religious, and judicial past. While not a conventional, geometrically defined square, it encompasses an L-shaped area to the east and south of the majestic St Giles' Kirk, with an additional section known as West Parliament Square to the church's west. This vibrant space, once the principal burial ground associated with St Giles' Kirk, transformed in 1632 into a crucial forecourt for the newly erected Parliament House, lending the square its definitive name. For centuries, Parliament Square has been a pivotal stage for the nation's most dramatic transformations, making it a must-visit for any curious traveler seeking to understand Edinburgh's profound history.

History & Cultural Background

Parliament Square's origins are deeply intertwined with the development of Scottish governance and justice. The Parliament House, completed in 1639, was an architectural marvel for its time, designed to host the pre-union Parliament of Scotland. It also housed the Court of Session, Scotland's supreme civil court, solidifying the square's role as a nexus of legal and political power. Prior to the Act of Union in 1707, when the Scottish Parliament was dissolved and its members relocated to Westminster, this area bustled with politicians, lawyers, and citizens gathering before entering the grand hall. This period saw Parliament Square, originally known as Parliament Close, as a dynamic center where the nation's fate was debated and decided.

Beyond its governmental function, the square was also home to the notorious Old Tolbooth, a multi-purpose building that served as a prison, tax office, and court. Though it was eventually torn down in 1817, its memory persists. St Giles' Kirk, often referred to as St Giles' Cathedral, has stood here since the 12th century and played a central role in the Scottish Reformation, notably with figures like John Knox. The square's evolution from a burial ground to a bustling civic space, and its continued role as the home of Scotland's Supreme Courts, underscores its continuous importance in the country's narrative.

What Makes It Special

Parliament Square is a living museum, replete with landmarks that tell tales of Scotland's past. Dominating the landscape is St Giles' Cathedral, with its distinctive crown spire, a cherished feature of Edinburgh's skyline. Inside, visitors can admire the intricate Thistle Chapel and learn about John Knox, a key figure in the Scottish Reformation, whose supposed grave is marked nearby. Adjacent to the cathedral stands Parliament House, now home to the Supreme Courts of Scotland. This building is considered the oldest surviving parliamentary structure in the United Kingdom, boasting an innovative 17th-century design and a magnificent hammer-beam ceiling made of Danish oak in its Parliament Hall.

In the square, an impressive equestrian statue of King Charles II catches the eye. Erected around 1685, it holds the distinction of being the first lead statue in Britain and Edinburgh's oldest bronze cast statue of a king. The Edinburgh Mercat Cross, a replica incorporating medieval stonework, stands proudly on the east side, recalling its historical role as a site for royal proclamations, public announcements, and even executions. Additionally, a statue of James Braidwood honors the founder of what is believed to be the world's first municipal fire service, established in Edinburgh after a devastating fire in 1824.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Parliament Square is steeped in intriguing stories and local traditions. One of the most unique features is the 'Heart of Midlothian' mosaic, set into the pavement near St Giles'. This heart-shaped marker indicates the precise location of the Old Tolbooth's entrance. Local tradition dictates that passers-by spit on it for good luck, a quirky ritual that connects modern visitors to a bygone era. Another poignant marker is found near the Charles II statue: the initials 'I K' and the date '1572' supposedly mark the grave of John Knox, the fiery reformer, whose final resting place is believed to be under the square itself.

Historically, the square was far more than a political hub; it functioned as an open-air 'stock exchange, newspaper, theater, and courtroom', where disputes were settled and the pulse of the city truly beat. Legend even tells of an emergency parliament convened here following the capture of King David II in 1346. During the vibrant Edinburgh Festival, the square reawakens its ancient spirit, becoming 'thick with vendors and performers,' reminiscent of its bustling 17th-century days. Inside Parliament Hall, visitors might still glimpse lawyers in their traditional wigs and gowns, a reminder that the building continues its crucial role in Scottish justice today. The story of Jenny Geddes, who famously threw a stool in St Giles' to protest the Anglican prayer book, highlights the square's deep connection to moments of fervent national and religious defiance.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting Parliament Square offers a tangible connection to Edinburgh's rich past without requiring entry fees for many of its most significant sites. St Giles' Cathedral, the historic High Kirk of Edinburgh, welcomes visitors free of charge, though donations are always appreciated. While the Parliament House now functions as the Supreme Courts of Scotland, its grand interior, including the impressive Parliament Hall, is generally accessible to the public, offering a glimpse into its long history. Be aware that as an active court building, security checks are in place.

The square's location on the Royal Mile makes it incredibly easy to explore on foot, surrounded by other key historical attractions. It's a place to linger, observe the statues, and imagine the centuries of history that have unfolded on its stones. While the modern Scottish Parliament building is located at the lower end of the Royal Mile, a visit to Parliament Square provides a profound understanding of where Scotland's governmental and legal traditions were forged. The sheer concentration of historical and cultural significance in this compact area makes it an essential stop for anyone seeking to delve into the soul of Scotland's capital.