Painted Ceilings

Overview

Stepping into the Museum Of Applied Arts in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, travelers are immediately enveloped in a world of exquisite craftsmanship. While the museum boasts a vast collection of traditional Uzbek artistry, from intricate ceramics to vibrant textiles, it is the building itself, particularly its 'Painted Ceilings', that often captures the imagination first. These ceilings are not merely decorative elements; they are masterpieces of traditional Central Asian design, offering a vivid introduction to the region's rich artistic heritage. The museum, housed in a former palace, provides a unique opportunity to witness the grandeur of 19th-century Uzbek architecture and the skill of its artisans firsthand.

The 'Painted Ceilings' are primarily found in the museum's central hall and the aivan (covered veranda), showcasing a dazzling array of colors, patterns, and intricate carvings. They represent a harmonious blend of various regional styles, brought to life by master craftsmen from across Turkestan.

History & Cultural Background

The building that houses the Museum Of Applied Arts has a fascinating history, dating back to the late 19th century. It was originally the opulent residence of Imperial Russian diplomat Alexander Polovtsev, built in 1907. Instead of adhering to European architectural trends, Polovtsev enlisted the finest Uzbek artisans from cities like Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Fergana to construct and decorate his palace in a traditional Uzbek style. This deliberate choice resulted in a magnificent edifice that is itself a prime example of architectural decorative art.

The transformation from a diplomat's residence to a public museum began in 1927 with an exhibition of local handicrafts. It officially became a state museum in 1937, ensuring the preservation and display of Uzbekistan's rich applied arts traditions for future generations. The interiors, including the elaborate ceilings, were crafted with painstaking detail, incorporating traditional techniques like ganch (carved plaster) and kundal painting, which have been preserved through generations of Uzbek craftsmanship.

What Makes It Special

The 'Painted Ceilings' stand out due to their exceptional artistry and the stories they tell about Uzbek culture and craftsmanship. They are a complex system of beams, coffers, and stalactite forms, known as muqarnas, an Arabic word for tiered, hanging projections. This intricate three-dimensional ornamentation creates a breathtaking visual effect, drawing the eye upwards to a canopy of color and design. The careful balance of geometric patterns and floral motifs, characteristic of Central Asian art, is a testament to the skill of the artisans.

A particularly noteworthy aspect is the stylistic diversity evident within the ceilings. Craftsmen from different regions contributed their unique approaches; for instance, Khivan work is often described as finer and more geometric, while Bukhara's contributions feature larger floral designs. This confluence of regional styles within a single architectural space makes the ceilings a living exhibition of Uzbekistan's diverse artistic schools. Furthermore, the use of vibrant, natural pigments in the kundal technique brings the intricate patterns to life, creating a sense of warmth and grandeur.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

One fascinating detail is that the central hall, designed as a traditional mehmonkhona or 'guest room', was intended for receiving visitors, much like a mosque in its layout with a mihrab-like niche. However, in this secular setting, the mihrab serves a purely decorative role. The former owner, Alexander Polovtsev, was known for his deep appreciation of Eastern culture, a fact reflected in the aphorism above his reception room doors, which translates to: 'The world is a castle where new people enter every day.'

The ceilings are not just painted surfaces; they incorporate deeply carved wood and ganch, creating a multi-layered effect that plays with light and shadow. The motifs often include elements inspired by nature, such as stylized flowers, leaves, and sometimes even subtle animal figures, reflecting the spiritual connection to the natural world in Central Asian art. The preservation of these delicate and intricate works over more than a century, through various historical periods and renovations, speaks volumes about their enduring cultural significance and the dedication to maintaining this artistic legacy.

Visitor Perspective

For any traveler exploring Tashkent, the 'Painted Ceilings' at the Museum Of Applied Arts offer an immersive cultural experience that transcends typical museum visits. Gazing up at these ornate ceilings evokes a sense of wonder and provides a profound appreciation for the rich artistic traditions of Uzbekistan. It's an opportunity to connect with a bygone era of elaborate craftsmanship, where every inch of a space was considered a canvas for beauty and storytelling. Visitors often find themselves lingering in the central hall, marveling at the intricate details and vibrant colors that adorn the high ceilings.

The sheer scale and intricacy of the artwork can be overwhelming in the best possible way, offering a visual feast that complements the diverse collection of applied arts housed within the museum. It's a place where the architecture itself becomes a primary exhibit, a testament to the enduring creativity and skill of Uzbek master builders and decorators. The ceilings provide an excellent introduction to the decorative styles one might encounter in older architectural highlights across other historic Uzbek cities like Bukhara and Samarkand.