Nerudova Street

Overview

Nerudova Street, a gem nestled within Prague's charming Malá Strana district, is a picturesque and historically rich thoroughfare that winds its way uphill from Malostranské náměstí towards the majestic Prague Castle. As a vital part of the historic Royal Route, the path once traversed by Bohemian kings on their coronation journeys, it exudes an undeniable sense of grandeur and history. Lined with exquisite Baroque palaces and centuries-old burgher houses adorned with fascinating house signs, Nerudova Street offers a captivating journey through time, revealing layers of Prague's past with every cobblestone. Its steep ascent is rewarded with panoramic views, and its unique character makes it one of the most beautiful and visited streets in the city.

History & Cultural Background

The origins of Nerudova Street date back to the founding of Malá Strana by King Přemysl Otakar II in 1267. Initially, the street had several names, reflecting its evolving history and the local vernacular. It was known as Ostruhová Street, a corruption of the German 'Sparrengasse,' which alluded to the wooden rafters (beams) laid into the pavement to assist carriages struggling with the steep incline. For centuries, the street was also segmented, with an upper section called Dláždění or Nad Strahovskou branou and a lower part named Strahovská. After being significantly damaged during the Hussite Wars and the great fire of Prague in 1541, much of its Gothic architecture was destroyed, leading to extensive rebuilding in Renaissance and later Baroque styles. Despite these transformations, many houses still retain their Gothic cellars. The street received its current name in 1895, honoring the beloved Czech poet and journalist Jan Neruda, who lived in the street and immortalized Malá Strana in his collection of short stories, 'Tales of the Lesser Quarter'.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets Nerudova Street apart are its distinctive and often whimsical house signs. Before the introduction of house numbers in Prague around 1770, these elaborate emblems served as unique identifiers for each residence, often depicting the owner's trade, name, or family crest. Nerudova Street boasts one of the richest collections of these historical signs, making a stroll here like an open-air museum. Notable examples include 'At the Two Suns' (Jan Neruda's former home), 'At the Three Violins' (the residence of violin makers), 'At the Red Lion' with its lion holding a golden chalice, and 'At the Golden Key', believed to represent enlightenment or eternal life. Beyond these fascinating signs, the street is also home to magnificent Baroque palaces like the Morzin Palace (now the Romanian Embassy) and the Thun-Hohenstein Palace (now the Italian Embassy), both showcasing intricate facades and sculptures. The blend of Gothic foundations, Renaissance elements, and opulent Baroque and Classicist facades creates a captivating architectural tapestry.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The spirit of Jan Neruda profoundly influences the street, whose works vividly depicted the lives and characters of Malá Strana. He lived for many years at the house 'At the Two Suns' (No. 47) and later 'In the Red Eagles' (No. 6). Interestingly, the Chilean Nobel laureate poet Pablo Neruda chose his pseudonym in honor of Jan Neruda, demonstrating the Czech writer's lasting cultural impact. A less romantic but equally historical detail is the street's former German name, 'Sparrengasse,' referring to the 'rafters' or wooden beams that were inserted into the cobblestones to provide traction for horses and carriages navigating the steep incline. Nerudova Street was also the route for the first bus line in the Czech lands, operating briefly between 1908 and 1909. Keep an eye out for other intriguing signs, such as 'At the Donkey in the Cradle,' which was once the home of alchemist Edward Kelley, or the Morzin Palace, whose balcony is supported by two Moors, with figures symbolizing day and night at its entrance.

Visitor Perspective

Walking along Nerudova Street is an experience that immerses you in Prague's rich history and vibrant atmosphere. Whether you choose to ascend the cobbled path towards Prague Castle or descend from its heights, you'll be treated to a sensory feast. The climb can be steep, but frequent stops to admire the intricate house signs, grand portals, and ornate facades make it an enjoyable journey. As you move uphill, the views of Petřín Hill become increasingly beautiful. While the street is a popular tourist destination, often bustling with visitors, it retains an old-world charm that encourages exploration. Take your time to discover the unique boutiques, quaint cafes, and restaurants housed within these historic buildings. Don't hesitate to wander down the narrow side alleys branching off Nerudova Street; these often lead to quieter, more authentic corners of Malá Strana, offering a glimpse into the district's enduring magic.