Meru Towers

Overview

The Meru Towers, known locally as pelinggih meru, are the quintessential architectural marvels nestled within Bali's most revered sanctuary, Besakih Temple. Often referred to as the 'Mother Temple' of Bali, Pura Besakih is a sprawling complex located on the southwestern slopes of Mount Agung, the island's highest volcano. These distinctive multi-tiered shrines are central to the spiritual landscape of Balinese Hinduism, immediately recognizable by their pagoda-style, thatched roofs that gracefully ascend towards the heavens. Each Meru tower serves as a sacred abode, a 'temporary palace' for gods and deified ancestors during religious ceremonies, embodying the cosmic Mount Meru from Hindu mythology.

History & Cultural Background

The origins of Besakih Temple are steeped in ancient lore, with its establishment believed to date back to the 8th century AD by the Hindu sage Rsi Markandeya, guided by divine forces to build a temple on Mount Agung's sacred slopes. The Meru architecture itself, characterized by its tiered roofs, was significantly influenced by Mpu Kuturan in the 11th century, becoming a key feature of Balinese temples and symbolizing the connection between the divine and earthly realms. Over centuries, Besakih evolved into a vast complex of over 80 individual temples, each with its own purpose, collectively forming the spiritual epicenter of Bali. The temple complex has shown remarkable resilience, having survived earthquakes and several volcanic eruptions of Mount Agung, notably a major eruption in 1963 where lava flows miraculously bypassed the main temple structures, a phenomenon locals interpret as a sign of divine protection.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets Meru Towers apart is their profound symbolism and intricate design. Representing Mount Meru, the mythical cosmic mountain and abode of the gods, their height and tiered structure symbolize the spiritual ascent and hierarchical order of the universe. The number of roofs, always odd, is a crucial indicator of the deity's status to whom the shrine is dedicated. For instance, a three-tiered Meru is often dedicated to deified ancestors or local gods, while the most prestigious eleven-tiered Merus are reserved for the highest Hindu gods like Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma, such as those found within the main sanctuary of Pura Penataran Agung. These roofs are traditionally crafted from ijuk, the black fibers of the sugar palm tree, lending them a distinct texture and appearance. The entire construction adheres to the philosophies of traditional Balinese architecture, known as Asta Kosala Kosali, which ensures harmony with cosmic principles.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Local legends enrich the spiritual tapestry of Besakih. It is said that the name 'Besakih' itself is derived from 'Basuki,' a reference to 'Naga Besukian,' a dragon deity believed to inhabit Mount Agung. The miraculous survival of the temple during the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung, when lava flows diverted just meters from the main temple, is widely regarded by Balinese Hindus as a sacred event, reinforcing the temple's divine importance. This event cemented Pura Besakih's status not just as a place of worship, but as a living testament to the powerful connection between the Balinese people, their faith, and the natural world. The arrangement of the complex, with its terraced levels ascending the mountain, is intentionally designed to guide devotees upward, both physically and spiritually, closer to the realm of the gods.

Visitor Perspective

For a curious traveler, visiting the Meru Towers at Besakih Temple is an immersive journey into Bali's spiritual heart. As you navigate the complex, the towering Merus within the innermost sanctums (jero) are an imposing sight, drawing your gaze upwards. While not all areas within the 23 separate temples of the complex may be accessible to non-Hindus, the sheer scale and intricate details of the Pura Penataran Agung, the largest and most important temple, offer a profound experience. Observing the devotees performing their rituals and offerings provides a glimpse into the vibrant living culture. The architecture, with its intricate carvings and stone gates, tells stories of Hindu mythology and Balinese craftsmanship. To fully appreciate the tranquil atmosphere and avoid crowds, an early morning visit is highly recommended. The cooler elevation on Mount Agung also makes for a more comfortable experience.