Jewish Cemetery

Overview

Perched gracefully on the eastern slopes of Marjan Hill, overlooking the picturesque city of Split in Croatia, lies the Old Jewish Cemetery. Established in 1573, this sacred site stands as one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in Europe, offering a profound glimpse into centuries of Jewish life and culture in the region. More than just a burial ground, it is a designated cultural monument, preserved as a testament to the community's enduring legacy. Visitors embarking on the scenic ascent of Marjan Hill will discover this tranquil and historically rich destination, providing not only a connection to the past but also breathtaking panoramic views of Split and the Adriatic Sea.

History & Cultural Background

The history of Jewish presence in Split stretches back to antiquity, with evidence suggesting a community existed even during Roman times. The formal establishment of the Old Jewish Cemetery on Marjan Hill in 1573 marked a significant moment for Split's Jewish population. This land grant by the city authorities was largely facilitated by Daniel Rodrigo, a refugee from the Portuguese Inquisition. Rodrigo's diplomatic and commercial acumen played a pivotal role in transforming Split into a vital trading and quarantine port for the Venetian Republic, benefiting both the local Jewish community and the city at large. Prior to this acquisition, Jewish burials were typically confined to areas outside Christian cemeteries.

The cemetery served its purpose for approximately 400 years, with the last burial taking place in 1945. A dark chapter in its history occurred in 1942 when Nazi forces tragically burned the cemetery's archive, destroying the original 1573 document that granted the land to the Jewish community. The Holocaust devastated Split's Jewish population, with a significant number perishing in concentration camps. In recognition of its profound historical and cultural importance, the cemetery was officially included in Croatia's state list of national heritage sites in 1966.

What Makes It Special

The Old Jewish Cemetery is a remarkably preserved site, containing approximately 700 tombstones that chronicle centuries of lives. The oldest readable tombstones date back to 1717, though some sources suggest dates as early as 1861. These markers predominantly adhere to the horizontal Sephardic style, appearing either as flat slabs or distinctive sarcophagus-roof shapes. Inscriptions are primarily in Hebrew, often featuring elaborate calligraphy, and some newer graves also bear text in Italian, Spanish, or Croatian.

Among the most captivating elements are two 17th-century tombstones, transported to Split from the nearby islands of Hvar and Brač. These unique stones feature iconographic decorations; one portrays a dove with an olive branch, while the other depicts an angel gracefully ascending a ladder towards the heavens, accompanied by the moving inscription: 'This friend has mounted/Into angelic heights/To take a rest in the garden of Eden/In the Grove of Salvation'. Beyond its individual markers, the cemetery's elevated position on Marjan Hill provides visitors with unparalleled, sweeping views across Split's red rooftops, Diocletian's Palace, and the shimmering Adriatic beyond.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The story of Daniel Rodrigo, the Portuguese refugee whose efforts led to the cemetery's establishment, highlights the resilience and entrepreneurial spirit of Split's Jewish community. His negotiations with the Venetian Republic not only secured a burial place but also bolstered Split's economic standing. An interesting detail is that the former cemetery chapel now serves as a charming coffee house, known as Vidilica, offering a place for contemplation with a view. While the cemetery gate may sometimes be locked, staff from the nearby Vidilica coffee place are usually able to grant access, ensuring that curious travelers can experience this historic site.

Despite its relatively small size throughout history, Split's Jewish community left an indelible mark on the city's trade, culture, and social fabric. The cemetery itself stands as a quiet, powerful monument to this rich, often overlooked, aspect of Split's past. In 2014, the cemetery experienced vandalism, reminding visitors of the ongoing importance of preserving such significant cultural heritage sites.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting the Old Jewish Cemetery offers a uniquely reflective and serene experience, a tranquil escape from the bustling city center below. It is not typically crowded, allowing for quiet contemplation amidst ancient stones and pine trees. The cemetery is conveniently located, approximately a 10-15 minute uphill walk from the heart of Split, making it an accessible historical detour. As part of the larger Marjan Hill forest park, the cemetery is integrated into an area beloved by locals for recreation, offering numerous walking trails and additional viewpoints.

Marjan Hill is affectionately known as the 'lungs of Split', a verdant oasis providing shade and natural beauty. For the most comfortable visit, especially considering the uphill walk, it's advisable to go during the milder seasons of spring (April-May) or early autumn (September-October), when temperatures are pleasant and the trails are less crowded. This allows visitors to fully appreciate the historical significance of the cemetery and the stunning natural beauty of Marjan Hill without the intense summer heat.