Gardens

Overview

Nestled within the historic ramparts of Fort Saint-Jean in Marseille, France, lie the enchanting Gardens, officially known as the Jardin des Migrations (Garden of Migrations). This green oasis, a vibrant extension of the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (Mucem), offers a unique blend of botanical beauty, historical context, and breathtaking panoramic views of the Old Port and the Mediterranean Sea. Far from a conventional garden, it is designed as a living narrative, inviting visitors to embark on a sensory journey through the diverse flora and rich cultural exchanges that have shaped the Mediterranean basin over millennia.

The Gardens cover an expansive 12,000 square meters within the fort, serving as a tranquil interlude of nature in the heart of the bustling city. They are freely accessible, allowing guests to wander, reflect, and connect with the profound relationship between humans and plants across various Mediterranean cultures.

History & Cultural Background

The site of Fort Saint-Jean itself boasts a formidable history, dating back to the 12th century when it was occupied by the Knights Hospitaller of Saint John, a military and religious order during the Crusades. Later, King Louis XIV ordered the construction of the present fort in the 17th century, transforming it into a significant military stronghold guarding Marseille's harbor. Over centuries, the fort witnessed periods as a prison during the French Revolution and served military purposes until World War II, when an explosion damaged many of its historic structures.

After extensive restoration, Fort Saint-Jean was integrated into the Mucem project, which opened in 2013. It was at this time that the Jardin des Migrations was conceived and brought to life. Designed by Agence APS in collaboration with nurseryman Olivier Filippi and botanist Véronique Mure, the gardens opened in 2014, earning recognition with the 'Victoires du paysage' award in the 'urban garden' category the same year. The creation of these gardens transformed a historic monument into a dynamic cultural space, intertwining the fort's ancient stones with a contemporary ecological and ethnobotanical vision.

What Makes It Special

The Jardin des Migrations is distinguished by its thematic exploration of plant and human migrations around the Mediterranean. Instead of traditional ornamental arrangements, it presents a botanical collection of tough, dry-garden Mediterranean plants, reflecting the region's diverse landscapes and the movement of species over time.

The garden journey is structured into several distinct areas:

• The Myrtle Garden: Evoking the ceremonial gardens of ancient commanders, with myrtle and pomegranate trees.
• Wild Salads: A section celebrating often-overlooked 'weeds' that have historically been valuable for human consumption.
• The Aromatic Path: Featuring familiar scents like thyme, sage, savory, oregano, and lavender, planted at hand-height for an immersive sensory experience.
• The Mediterranean Vegetable Garden: Telling the story of staple vegetables such as tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, and eggplant, illustrating their migration and importance in Mediterranean cuisine.
• Gardens on the Hill: A mosaic of garrigue, flower meadows, vines, and orchards, offering shaded picnic spots amidst olive trees.
• The Ethnobotanical Trail: Running along a covered walkway, this trail highlights plants used for healing, mythology, and those mentioned in sacred texts like the Bible and the Quran.

Each section offers unique perspectives, showcasing the resilience and adaptability of Mediterranean flora, and underlining the deep historical and cultural connections between plants and people in the region.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The Jardin des Migrations doesn't just display plants; it tells stories. For instance, the myrtle garden is designed to remind visitors of the Alhambra of Granada, linking Marseille to broader Mediterranean cultural heritage. The 'wild salads' section challenges perceptions, elevating common 'weeds' like milk thistle and mallow to a place of honor, celebrating their historical utility and ecological importance. The ethnobotanical trail delves into fascinating tales of plants used in ancient practices, from healing to supposed witchcraft, and their presence in religious texts, weaving a rich tapestry of human interaction with the botanical world.

The concept of 'migration' extends beyond botany, symbolizing the cultural melting pot of Marseille itself, a city that has always been a crossroads of civilizations. The gardens reflect this through the diverse origins and uses of the plants, offering a subtle narrative about the intertwining of nature and human history. It's a place where the past whispers through the rustling leaves and the scents carry echoes of distant lands.

Visitor Perspective

Visiting the Gardens of Fort Saint-Jean is a journey of discovery and tranquility. The free access to the landscaped outdoor areas allows everyone to wander freely, making it a true public space where locals and travelers alike can relax and enjoy. The thoughtful design encourages a multi-sensory experience: observing the varied foliage, touching aromatic herbs, smelling their fragrant essences, and listening to the sounds of nature and the city below.

Two modern footbridges seamlessly connect the fort, and thus its gardens, to the contemporary Mucem building and the historic Le Panier district, making it an integral part of Marseille's urban and tourist itinerary. From the gardens' various vantage points, visitors are treated to unparalleled views of the vibrant Old Port, the expansive Mediterranean Sea, and the city's iconic landmarks, making it a perfect spot for reflection and photography. While some areas might have partial accessibility, the overall experience emphasizes a peaceful and insightful engagement with both nature and history.