Customs House Tower

Overview

Standing majestically on The Bund in Shanghai, China, the Customs House Tower is more than just a building; it is a profound symbol of the city's rich history and its enduring connection to global trade. Completed in 1927, this eight-story neoclassical marvel with its prominent clock tower has become an iconic landmark, gracing countless postcards and forming an integral part of Shanghai's world-famous waterfront skyline. It continues to operate as a customs house today, a testament to its original purpose and the city's continuous commercial vibrancy.

Its imposing architecture, with elements reminiscent of London's Big Ben, draws the eye of every visitor to The Bund, creating a memorable impression against the backdrop of the Huangpu River. The Customs House, alongside the neighboring HSBC Building, is widely considered one of the definitive symbols of both The Bund and Shanghai itself, embodying a blend of European architectural influence and Chinese heritage.

History & Cultural Background

The origins of the Shanghai Custom House date back to the late 17th century when the Qing dynasty's Kangxi Emperor lifted the ban on sea trade, establishing customs houses to facilitate commerce along China's east coast. The institution, then known as 'Jiang Customs House,' evolved significantly over the centuries, with its location shifting and structures being rebuilt multiple times to accommodate Shanghai's booming trade.

The current Customs House Tower is the result of a design by the British architectural firm Palmer and Turner. Construction began in 1925, and the building was officially completed on December 19, 1927, costing 4.3 million taels of silver. At the time of its completion, it stood as the tallest building on The Bund, reflecting Shanghai's rapid ascent as a major international port and economic powerhouse. Its design, a fusion of Greek Revival Neo-Classicist style and subtle Art Deco elements, speaks volumes about the city's colonial-era influences and its embrace of Western architectural trends during the 1920s.

What Makes It Special

The most distinctive feature of the Customs House Tower is undoubtedly its magnificent clock tower, rising 90 meters (approximately 300 feet) above the main eight-story structure. This impressive tower, often compared to London's Big Ben, houses a clock and bell mechanism meticulously crafted by JB Joyce & Co. in England, with the five bells cast by John Taylor Bellfounders. Shipped to Shanghai in 1927, the clock remains the largest mechanical clock in Asia, a true feat of engineering from its era.

The clock's four faces, each 5.3 meters (17 feet) in diameter, are composed of over 100 pieces of glass and illuminated by 72 automatic lamps. Inside the main entrance, visitors would historically find a grand hall adorned with marble columns and gold leaf, culminating in an octagonal dome featuring intricate mosaics. This blend of monumental scale, detailed craftsmanship, and continuous function as a customs house sets it apart as a unique architectural and historical gem.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

• The Voice of The Bund: The clock's chimes have been an auditory landmark of Shanghai for nearly a century. Originally, the bells played the 'Westminster Quarters,' the same melody as Big Ben. However, during the Cultural Revolution, the tune was replaced by 'The East is Red,' a Chinese revolutionary song, played over loudspeakers rather than by the bells themselves.
• Changing Tunes: The 'Westminster Quarters' were temporarily restored in 1986 during Queen Elizabeth II's visit. Yet, by 1997, coinciding with the transfer of sovereignty over Hong Kong, 'The East is Red' returned as the primary melody. This reflects a fascinating interplay of historical events and cultural identity.
• The Clock Keeper: For decades, a dedicated clock keeper, such as Wei Yunsi, the fourth guardian, has been responsible for maintaining the mechanical clock, a task that requires winding it every three days. Locals once relied on the clock's chimes to tell time without needing a watch, highlighting its deep integration into daily life.
• Architectural Kinship: Designed by the renowned British firm Palmer & Turner, the Customs House shares its architectural lineage with other significant buildings on The Bund, contributing to the area's cohesive European-influenced aesthetic.

Visitor Perspective

While the interior of the Customs House Tower is generally not open to the public, its external grandeur is a major draw for anyone visiting The Bund. The tower serves as a focal point, its clock face a constant reminder of Shanghai's enduring legacy. Standing along the riverside promenade, visitors can admire its impressive Neo-Classicist facade, the intricate details of its clock tower, and its commanding presence among the other historical buildings.

Many travelers recommend arriving around twilight to witness the Customs House and the entire Bund illuminate, offering spectacular photographic opportunities. The rhythmic chimes, regardless of the tune, add an atmospheric layer to the experience, connecting visitors to the living history of this dynamic city. It's a place where history resonates, offering a tangible link to Shanghai's past as a bustling international hub and providing a captivating view of its continued evolution.