Closes (alleys)

Overview

Edinburgh's Royal Mile, a historic thoroughfare connecting Edinburgh Castle with the Palace of Holyroodhouse, is famously punctuated by a series of narrow, often steep, passageways known as 'closes'. More than just alleyways, these closes are vital arteries into the city's past, each one a unique vertical street leading off the main spine into hidden courtyards, tenements, and forgotten worlds. There are over 250 such closes throughout Edinburgh's Old Town, with the majority branching off the Royal Mile itself. Exploring them offers a profound sense of stepping back in time, away from the bustling main street, into the quiet, echoing history of Scotland's capital.

History & Cultural Background

The existence of Edinburgh's closes is deeply rooted in the city's medieval development and its unique urban constraints. Confined by defensive walls, Edinburgh was forced to grow upwards and inwards, leading to incredible population density and the construction of multi-story buildings, some as high as fourteen storeys. These narrow passages were essential for providing access to the residences, workshops, and communal spaces nestled behind the main street buildings. Originally, many closes were private properties, often named after a prominent resident or the trade conducted within, and could be 'closed' off at night with gates, hence their name.

Life within these closes was vibrant yet challenging. They were central to daily life, serving as residential access, workspaces, and social hubs. However, their cramped conditions made them breeding grounds for disease, notably the bubonic plague in 1645, which devastated Edinburgh's population. As the city expanded and the wealthy moved to the New Town, many closes transitioned into slums. While some were later demolished during urban reform efforts in the 19th century, others, like Mary King's Close, were built over and preserved beneath modern streets, offering an unparalleled glimpse into 17th-century urban life.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets the closes apart is their ability to transport visitors to a different era. They present a stark contrast to the wider, more open Royal Mile. Their narrow, winding paths, often featuring steep descents and long flights of stairs, create a unique canyon-like atmosphere. Many still retain their original cobbles and ancient stonework, some dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. This architectural survival provides a tangible connection to the past, making them more than just shortcuts; they are open-air museums of urban history.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Each close holds its own narratives, ranging from the eerie to the inspiring. The Real Mary King's Close is perhaps the most famous, partially buried beneath the City Chambers and preserved since the 17th century. It offers chilling tours detailing life during the plague and ghost stories, including the tale of 'Annie', a young girl said to haunt the close. Brodie's Close is famously associated with Deacon William Brodie, a respected cabinetmaker and city councilor by day, and a burglar by night, who inspired Robert Louis Stevenson's 'Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde'. Fleshmarket Close takes its name from the former meat market, where blood would flow down the steep incline. Advocate's Close, once a fashionable address for Scottish gentry, now offers stunning views of the Scott Monument. Dunbar's Close hides a beautifully recreated 17th-century style garden, a tranquil oasis in the city. Bakehouse Close is remarkably well-preserved and gained recent fame as a filming location for the TV series 'Outlander'. And the picturesque White Horse Close, with its whitewashed buildings, is said to have been where Mary Queen of Scots stabled her white horse. Even the story of Joseph McIvor from Paisley Close, who, after a tenement collapse in 1861, famously cried 'Heave awa' chaps, I'm no' dead yet!', adds to the rich tapestry of these historic passages.

Visitor Perspective

For the curious traveler, exploring Edinburgh's closes is an essential part of the Old Town experience. They are not always immediately obvious, often appearing as subtle archways or narrow openings off the Royal Mile, making their discovery feel like uncovering a secret. Walking through them provides an intimate connection to the lives of past residents – from merchants and tradespeople to the less fortunate. Many closes are open to the public, inviting self-guided exploration, while others, like The Real Mary King's Close, offer guided tours that bring their layered histories to life. It is in these ancient, often shadowy, passageways that the true spirit and dramatic history of Edinburgh are most vividly felt.