Casa de la Panadería

Discover the Casa de la Panadería, the iconic painted building in Madrid's Plaza Mayor. Explore its rich history, captivating frescoes, and cultural significance in Spain.

Overview

Nestled on the northern side of Madrid’s iconic Plaza Mayor, the Casa de la Panadería stands as a testament to the city’s rich history and vibrant public life. This majestic building, whose name translates to 'House of the Bakery', is arguably the most emblematic structure within the grand square. While its initial purpose hinted at providing provisions, its role quickly evolved, becoming a focal point for royal events, public celebrations, and the unfolding drama of Madrid’s past. Today, it continues to captivate visitors with its stunning façade and enduring presence, serving as both a cultural landmark and a welcoming gateway to the city’s charms.

Its prominent position, flanked by the symmetrical arcades of the Plaza Mayor, makes it an unmissable sight. More than just a building, the Casa de la Panadería represents the architectural and civic heart of the square, drawing the eye with its intricate details and the stories etched into its very walls. For any traveler exploring Madrid, understanding this building is key to unlocking the spirit of its most famous plaza.

History & Cultural Background

The history of the Casa de la Panadería is intrinsically linked to the very foundation of the Plaza Mayor itself. Its construction began in 1617 under the direction of Juan Gómez de Mora, making it the very first building to rise in the newly conceived square. Contrary to its name, the building’s function as a public bakery was short-lived and primarily symbolic. Instead, it quickly became a multi-purpose edifice, housing royal apartments for witnessing spectacles in the square, as well as municipal offices and even the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando at different points in its long life.

The building, like the Plaza Mayor, has endured several devastating fires throughout the centuries, particularly in 1631, 1672, and the most significant one in 1790. Each time, it was rebuilt and restored, evolving its appearance. The reconstruction after the 1672 fire saw the addition of elaborate frescoes by Claudio Coello and José Jiménez Donoso, establishing a tradition of richly decorated façades. The final major reconstruction, following the 1790 fire, was overseen by the renowned architect Juan de Villanueva, though the painted frescoes were later added by students of Goya, including Antonio Joli.

Throughout its history, the Casa de la Panadería has been central to Madrid’s cultural life. It has witnessed coronations, bullfights, canonizations, and even the solemn autos-da-fé during the Spanish Inquisition. Its balconies offered a prime viewing spot for these diverse and often dramatic events, cementing its status as the royal box and civic grandstand of the city.

What Makes It Special

What truly sets the Casa de la Panadería apart is its extraordinary painted façade. These vibrant and intricate frescoes are not original, but rather a contemporary interpretation that continues a centuries-old tradition. The current murals, completed in 1992 by Madrid artist Carlos Franco, are a fantastical blend of mythology and historical allegory. They depict figures such as Cybele, Proserpina, and Bacchus, interwoven with references to Madrid’s origins and its emblematic stories, offering a visual narrative that engages the imagination.

Beyond its artistic exterior, its historical significance as the first building in Plaza Mayor and its central position make it a focal point. It anchors the entire square, providing a visual counterpoint to the Casa de la Carnicería on the opposite side. Today, its ground floor houses the main Tourist Information Center for Madrid, making it a practical starting point for many visitors. The upper floors are often utilized for municipal cultural events and exhibitions, ensuring its continued relevance as a hub of activity and information in the heart of the capital.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

• The Shifting Art Gallery: The frescoes on the Casa de la Panadería have changed dramatically over time. The first known frescoes were by Diego López de Lisboa. After the 1672 fire, Claudio Coello and José Jiménez Donoso adorned it with mythological themes. Following the great fire of 1790, students of Francisco de Goya applied new allegorical paintings. The current, widely admired frescoes by Carlos Franco are relatively modern, added as part of a significant restoration in 1992, each depicting a mythological figure or scene connected to Madrid's heritage.
• Royal Viewpoint: For centuries, the royal family would often use the balconies of the Casa de la Panadería to observe the grand spectacles held in the Plaza Mayor, from bullfights and public executions to festivals and celebrations. It truly was the prime seat in the house.
• A Name Misnomer: Despite its name, 'House of the Bakery', the building only briefly served as an actual public bakery in its earliest days. Its primary purpose quickly shifted to housing municipal offices and royal residences, making its name more of a historical echo than a functional description.
• The Oldest Crest: Look closely at the façade, and you’ll find the coat of arms of Madrid (a bear and a strawberry tree) prominently displayed. This specific iteration is one of the oldest depictions of the city's emblem still visible in a public space.

Visitor Perspective

Approaching the Casa de la Panadería today offers a fascinating blend of history and contemporary engagement. As you step into the vast expanse of Plaza Mayor, your eyes are immediately drawn to its vibrant, painted façade, standing out against the brick and slate roofs of the surrounding buildings. It’s a natural gathering point, whether you’re simply admiring the frescoes, waiting for friends, or seeking information at the Tourist Center on its ground floor.

Standing beneath its arches, you can almost hear the echoes of centuries past – the roar of the crowd at a bullfight, the hushed reverence of a religious ceremony, or the joyous clamor of a fiesta. The frescoes invite contemplation, prompting questions about the stories they tell and their connection to Madrid’s identity. It’s a place that encourages you to pause, to look up, and to absorb the layers of history that make Madrid such a captivating city. Whether you're seeking guidance for your Madrid adventures or simply soaking in the atmosphere, the Casa de la Panadería stands ready to greet you, a timeless guardian of the Plaza Mayor’s grandeur.