St. Nicholas Church

Overview

Nestled in the vibrant north-western corner of Prague's Old Town Square, the Church of St. Nicholas (Kostel svatého Mikuláše) stands as a prominent and captivating Baroque masterpiece. Its striking white façade, crowned by a large octagonal dome and flanked by two tall towers, is an undeniable landmark in the city's skyline. It is crucial to distinguish this architectural gem from its namesake in Prague's Lesser Town, as both are significant but distinct. Today, the Church of St. Nicholas serves as the main church of the Czechoslovak Hussite Church, a role it has held since 1920, and is a celebrated venue for classical music concerts.

History & Cultural Background

The site where the current Baroque church stands has been dedicated to religious worship for over 800 years, with a small Romanesque parish church believed to have existed there around the 13th century. Historical records first mention a church on this spot as early as 1273. Throughout its early history, this original church was a hub for reformist thinkers, including Jan Hus, who preached here, highlighting its early significance in the region's religious landscape.

After a devastating fire in 1689, the medieval structure gave way to the grand Baroque edifice we see today. The construction of the present church took place between 1732 and 1737, under the vision of the acclaimed architect Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Over the centuries, the church witnessed numerous shifts in ownership and purpose. Initially Catholic, it was handed over to the Benedictine order in the 17th century. During the late 18th century, it was even closed down and repurposed as a granary, archive, or warehouse, and later as a military garrison. From 1871 to 1914, it served the Russian Orthodox community. A significant chapter in its cultural history unfolded during the 1945 Prague uprising when it became a covert broadcasting site for Radio Prague, used by Czech partisans under attack by the Waffen-SS. Post-World War II, the church transitioned to its current role as the main church of the Czechoslovak Hussite Church.

What Makes It Special

The Church of St. Nicholas is widely regarded as one of Central Europe's most compelling Baroque buildings, a true masterpiece of its era. Its interior is a feast for the eyes, adorned with vibrant frescoes, elaborate stucco work, intricate ironwork, and countless statues. The ceiling frescoes, depicting scenes from the lives of St. Nicholas and St. Benedict alongside Old Testament motifs, are attributed to the renowned artists Cosmas Damian Asam and Peter Adam the Elder. The exterior boasts magnificent sandstone statues of Benedictine saints, meticulously crafted by Antonín Braun. Perhaps one of its most breathtaking features is the monumental Bohemian glass chandelier, weighing an impressive 1,400 kilograms. Shaped like a tsar's crown with a crystal cross, this stunning piece was a gift from Tsar Nicholas II (or Alexander II) to the Orthodox Church in the late 19th century. The church also houses an 18th-century organ, famously played by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart during his time in Prague, adding another layer of historical and artistic significance.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The Church of St. Nicholas holds several intriguing stories. Until 1904, access to one of its two tall towers was quite an adventure: only one tower had a permanent staircase, while the other was reachable via a mobile wooden bridge without a railing, reportedly requiring acrobatic skill to cross. A new staircase was finally added in 1904. The church was also a site for unexpected events; in 1791, the French balloonist Jean-Pierre Blanchard, famous for the first aerial crossing of the English Channel, exhibited his ballooning equipment here. During one of its periods of secular use in 1787, the cupola of the church even hosted high wire acts, a truly surprising transformation for a sacred space. Adding to its local charm, the house directly next to the church is believed to be the birthplace of the celebrated writer Franz Kafka. For many years, the church's impressive Baroque façade was obscured by the Krenn House; it only became fully visible to the Old Town Square after the house's demolition in 1902 and a section of the Old Town Hall in 1945.

Visitor Perspective

Today, the Church of St. Nicholas welcomes visitors to explore its rich history and stunning interiors. It continues to hold religious services, and its exceptional acoustics make it a highly sought-after venue for classical music concerts, particularly in the evenings. Attending a concert here offers a unique opportunity to experience the church's grandeur in an enchanting atmosphere. For comfort during winter performances, the church is heated, and concert seating often features heated cushions. While the church itself is not fully wheelchair accessible due to stairs, staff are generally available to assist with wheelchairs for those attending concerts, with prior notice. Opening hours typically vary but generally fall between 10:00 to 17:00 on weekdays and slightly altered hours on weekends, making it accessible for most itineraries.