Pedestrian Areas

Overview

At the very heart of Lyon, France, lies Place Bellecour, an expansive urban space renowned as one of Europe's largest pedestrian squares. Situated gracefully on the Presqu'île, the peninsula nestled between the majestic Saône and Rhône rivers, this monumental square offers an unparalleled sense of openness amidst the city's charming, narrower streets. Measuring approximately 312 meters by 200 meters, it is not only the biggest pedestrian square in Europe but also the third largest square in all of France. Place Bellecour holds immense significance for Lyon, serving as the city's 'kilometre 0', from which all distances are traditionally measured. Designated as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it stands as a testament to Lyon's rich history and vibrant contemporary life, attracting both locals and visitors alike.

History & Cultural Background

The history of Place Bellecour stretches back to antiquity, with the area serving as an alluvial island and a hub for military and commercial activities during the Gallo-Roman era. Traces of ancient 'canabae', small warehouses for traders and boatmen, have been unearthed, indicating its early importance as a bustling district. By the 12th century, the site was owned by the Archbishop of Lyon, who cultivated a vineyard known as 'Bella Curtis', meaning 'beautiful garden', which eventually gave the square its current name. However, the land was later abandoned and became swampy, briefly serving as a military camp in 1562 during the Wars of Religion.

The square began to take on its modern form in the 17th and 18th centuries. King Henry IV initiated plans for a public square in 1604, a vision that Louis XIV later embraced, preventing its privatization. In 1715, it was transformed into Place Royale, adorned with a bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV. The French Revolution dramatically altered its landscape; the royal statue was destroyed in 1793, melted down for cannons, and a guillotine was temporarily installed, leading to the square's renaming as Place de l'Égalité. Following the Bourbon Restoration, the majestic equestrian statue of Louis XIV, sculpted by François-Frédéric Lemot, was re-erected in 1825, restoring its regal essence. It was under the French Third Republic that the square officially adopted its enduring name, Place Bellecour, a symbol of resilience and transformation.

What Makes It Special

Place Bellecour distinguishes itself as the largest entirely pedestrian square in Europe, a feature that allows for an unobstructed sense of grandeur and provides ample space for public life. Unlike many large city squares, it is notably devoid of trees or greenery, contributing to its unique open and dusty-red aesthetic. At its heart stands the magnificent equestrian statue of King Louis XIV, a prominent landmark and a symbol of French history. Additionally, a poignant statue of Lyon's celebrated author, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, accompanied by his most famous creation, the Little Prince, graces the western side of the square, honoring his literary legacy. The square's red earth, sourced from the Beaujolais region, is not merely aesthetic but a historical choice that has defined its character for centuries. As 'kilometre 0', it serves as Lyon's geographical and symbolic center, where several key streets converge, making it an essential crossroads in the urban fabric.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

Among the many tales associated with Place Bellecour, one persistent rumour concerns the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. It is said that the sculptor, François-Frédéric Lemot, committed suicide shortly after its installation in 1825 because he had forgotten to include the king's stirrups. While this story has been officially debunked, with historians noting that the king often rode 'Roman-like' without stirrups and Lemot died of natural causes years later, the anecdote remains a charming piece of local lore.

Another fascinating detail is the journey of the current Louis XIV statue to the square. It was transported from Paris to Lyon over twelve days, pulled by a team of twenty-four horses, an event that was met with festive celebrations upon its arrival. The square also pays homage to a darker chapter of history with the 'Veilleur de Pierre' (Stone Watchman) sculpture on rue Gasparin. This discreet memorial marks the site where the French Resistance carried out an attack against Nazi officials in 1944. Place Bellecour is a dynamic stage for city life, hosting major events throughout the year, from Christmas markets and a winter ice rink to the Fête des Lumières, concerts, and even traditional pétanque competitions, showcasing Lyon's vibrant cultural pulse.

Visitor Perspective

For any traveler to Lyon, the pedestrian areas of Place Bellecour offer a quintessential Lyonnaise experience. Its vast, open expanse provides a natural gathering point and an excellent starting block for exploring the city's various districts. Visitors can stroll across its impressive expanse, taking in the grand scale and the iconic statues, or find a spot to relax and observe the city's rhythm. The square is surrounded by elegant buildings housing numerous cafes, restaurants, and boutiques, making it an ideal place for a coffee break or some window shopping. The Lyon Tourist Office is conveniently located within one of the square's pavilions, offering valuable information and assistance to explorers. With the Bellecour metro station directly beneath the square, and numerous bus routes serving the area, it is incredibly accessible from anywhere in Lyon. From this central vantage point, one can enjoy clear views of the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière atop its hill and the charming rooftops of Vieux Lyon across the Saône. A visit can range from a quick one-to-two-hour tour to appreciate its main features, to half a day spent soaking in the atmosphere and exploring the adjacent streets.