Carpet Vendors

Overview

Stepping into the Vernissage Market in Yerevan, Armenia, is an immersion into a vibrant tapestry of culture and craftsmanship, where the dedicated section of carpet vendors holds a special allure. This sprawling open-air market, predominantly bustling on weekends, is more than just a place of commerce; it is a living museum reflecting Armenia's artistic soul. Nestled between Aram and Buzand streets, near Republic Square, the market offers a diverse array of goods, with the intricate world of Armenian carpets taking center stage for many curious travelers. Here, amidst other unique handicrafts, art, and antiques, visitors can explore a wide spectrum of woven treasures, from pieces echoing ancient traditions to more contemporary designs.

The carpet vendor section at Vernissage provides a sensory experience, with a riot of colors and patterns unfolding before your eyes. While it serves as a fantastic spot for exploring and admiring the artistry, it is also a place where the history of a nation is literally woven into threads.

History & Cultural Background

The Vernissage Market itself began in the 1980s as an informal gathering where Armenian artists would display their works. Over time, it evolved, attracting artisans, woodcarvers, jewelers, and eventually sellers of antiques and carpets, especially after the devastating earthquake of 1988, when it became a symbol of revival and support for local craftsmen.

The tradition of Armenian carpet weaving, however, dates back millennia, tracing its roots to at least the 5th century BC, and possibly even earlier, to the late second and early first millennia BCE. Ancient Armenians utilized carpets not just as floor coverings but also as wall hangings, decorative elements for furniture, and even for sacred purposes in churches. Greek and Roman historians also made mention of Armenian rug weaving, highlighting its long-standing significance. Carpet making was historically a major traditional profession, often predominantly carried out by women in Armenian families, and it was considered a must in every household. These textiles served as a vital part of everyday life and were also once used for tax payments and were highly valued as booty.

The art form continued to flourish, even through periods of political turmoil and the Soviet era, when it was sometimes practiced secretly in homes despite industrialization. The intricate designs, vibrant colors, and high craftsmanship of Armenian rugs gained international recognition, with some dating back to the medieval era being exported as far as China.

What Makes It Special

Armenian carpets are renowned for their distinctive designs, patterns, and colors, often featuring geometric motifs, floral elements, and animal figures, along with intricate borders and medallions. The color palette is typically rich and vibrant, with red, blue, green, and gold being common hues. Symbolism is deeply embedded in these creations, with patterns often reflecting the culture, history, and religious beliefs of the Armenian people, including Christian crosses and ancient Armenian script. One of the characteristic weaving techniques is the double-knot (also known as the Armenian or Ghiordes knot), which contributes to a sturdier and more durable weave. This knotting method requires significant time and care to perfect.

At Vernissage, while you will encounter a wide variety, it's important to discern between genuine antique Armenian carpets and other offerings. While some vendors may present modern, handmade pieces truthfully, many 'antique' rugs might be industrial-produced items from other regions, artificially aged. Nevertheless, the market allows you to appreciate the visual splendor and diversity of designs that have been passed down through generations.

Stories, Fun Facts & Local Details

The very name 'Vernissage' is French, originally referring to a 'preview' of an art exhibition, aptly reflecting the market's origins as an artists' showcase. This lively market offers a chance to engage directly with local vendors, many of whom are eager to share stories behind their wares. Bargaining is a customary practice here, adding to the authentic market experience. While there's no fixed percentage for negotiation, vendors are generally open to it. The market provides an opportunity to see how ancient symbols, like the wheel of eternity or traditional 'dragon rugs' (vishapagorgs), have been reinterpreted and preserved in modern weaving.

A notable historical anecdote revolves around the 'Armenian Orphan Rug,' an 11-by-18-foot masterpiece woven by 400 Armenian orphan girls over 18 months between 1924 and 1925. This rug, depicting a Biblical Garden of Eden, was gifted to the White House as a gesture of gratitude to the American people.

Visitor Perspective

To fully experience the carpet vendors at Vernissage, plan your visit for a Saturday or Sunday, as these are the busiest days with the widest selection. The market typically opens around 9 AM, with the best selection often found earlier in the morning before the crowds arrive. It's advisable to approach carpet purchases with a discerning eye. While Vernissage is an excellent place to find unique pieces and soak in the atmosphere, for guaranteed authentic Armenian antique carpets with provenance, dedicated factories and showrooms like Megerian Carpet Factory or the Yerevan Carpet Factory are recommended, though they will be significantly more expensive. Small carpets and kilims can usually be checked on planes, but for larger pieces, specific shipping arrangements might be necessary. Engaging with vendors, asking about the origin and history of the pieces, and being prepared to haggle are all part of the enriching experience of exploring the woven wonders at Yerevan's Vernissage.